England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
and there is something grandly elegant in the unity of effect produced
by this unobstructed perspective. The charm is increased by a singular
architectural fantasy. Standing in the centre of the doorway, you
perceive that the eastern wall does not directly face you, and that
from the beginning of the choir the receding aisle deflects slightly
to the left, in reported suggestion of the droop of the Saviour’s head
on the cross. Here again Mr. Gilbert Scott has lately laboured to no
small purpose of _un_doing, it would appear—undoing the misdeeds of
the last century. This extraordinary period expended an incalculable
amount of imagination in proving that it had none. Universal whitewash
was the least of its offences. But this has been scraped away and the
solid stonework left to speak for itself, the delicate capitals and
cornices disencrusted and discreetly rechiselled and the whole temple
æsthetically rededicated. Its most beautiful feature, happily, has
needed no repair, for its perfect beauty has been its safeguard. The
great choir window of Lichfield is the noblest glasswork before the
spell of which one’s soul has become simple. I remember nowhere colours
so chaste and grave, and yet so rich and true, or a cluster of designs
so piously decorative and yet so vivified. Such a window as this seems
to me the most sacred ornament of a great church; to be, not like vault
and screen and altar, the dim contingent promise to the spirit, but the
very redemption of the whole vow. This Lichfield glass is not the less
interesting for being visibly of foreign origin. Exceeding so obviously
as it does the range of English genius in this line, it indicates at
least the heavenly treasure stored up in continental churches. It dates
from the early sixteenth century, and was transferred hither sixty
years ago from a decayed Belgian abbey. This, however, is not all of
Lichfield. You have not seen it till you have strolled and restrolled
along the close on every side, and watched the three spires constantly
change their relation as you move and pause. Nothing can well be finer
than the combination of the two lesser ones soaring equally in front
with the third riding tremendously the magnificently sustained line
of the roof. At a certain distance against the sky this long ridge
seems something infinite and the great spire to sit astride of it
like a giant mounted on a mastodon. Your sense of the huge mass of the
building is deepened by the fact that though the central steeple is of
double the elevation of the others, you see it, from some points, borne
back in a perspective which drops it to half their stature and lifts
them into immensity. But it would take long to tell all that one sees
and fancies and thinks in a lingering walk about so great a church as
this.
[Illustration: LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL]
[Illustration: THE THREE SPIRES OF LICHFIELD]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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