England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
The great façade is remarkable not so much for its expanse as for its
elaborate elegance. It consists of two great truncated towers, divided
by a broad centre bearing, beside its rich fretwork of statues, three
narrow lancet windows. The statues on this vast front are the great
boast of the cathedral. They number, with the lateral figures of the
towers, no less than three hundred; it seems densely embroidered
by the chisel. They are disposed, in successive niches, along six
main vertical shafts; the central windows are framed and divided by
narrower shafts, and the wall above them rises into a pinnacled screen
traversed by two superb horizontal rows. Add to these a close-running
cornice of images along the line corresponding with the summit of
the aisles and the tiers which complete the decoration of the towers
on either side, and you have an immense system of images governed by
a quaint theological order and most impressive in its completeness.
Many of the little high-lodged effigies are mutilated, and not a few
of the niches are empty, but the injury of time is not sufficient to
diminish the noble serenity of the building. The injury of time is
indeed being actively repaired, for the front is partly masked by a
slender scaffolding. The props and platforms are of the most delicate
structure, and look in fact as if they were meant to facilitate
no more ponderous labour than a fitting-on of noses to disfeatured
bishops and a rearrangement of the mantle-folds of strait-laced queens
discomposed by the centuries. The main beauty of Wells Cathedral, to
my mind, is not its more or less visible wealth of detail, but its
singularly charming tone of colour. An even, sober, mouse-like grey
invests it from summit to base, deepening nowhere to the melancholy
black of your truly romantic gothic, but showing as yet none of the
spotty brightness of renovation. It is a wonderful fact that the great
towers, from their lofty outlook, see never a factory chimney—those
cloud-compelling spires which so often break the charm of the softest
English horizons; and the general atmosphere of Wells seemed to me, for
some reason, peculiarly luminous and sweet. The cathedral has never
been discoloured by the moral malaria of a city with an independent
secular life. As you turn back from its portal and glance at the open
lawn before it, edged by the mild grey seventeenth-century deanery
and the other dwellings, hardly less stately, which seem to reflect
in their comfortable fronts the rich respectability of the church, and
then up again at the beautiful clear-hued pile, you may fancy it less
a temple for man’s needs than a monument of his pride—less a fold for
the flock than for the shepherds; a visible token that, besides the
actual assortment of heavenly thrones, there is constantly on hand a
“full line” of cushioned cathedral stalls. Within the cathedral this
impression is not diminished. The interior is vast and massive, but it
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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