England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
My fancy found its account even better in the singular quaintness of
the little precinct known as the Vicars’ Close. It directly adjoins
the Cathedral Green, and you enter it beneath one of the solid old
gate-houses which form so striking an element in the ecclesiastical
furniture of Wells. It consists of a narrow, oblong court, bordered
on each side with thirteen small dwellings and terminating in a
ruinous little chapel. Here formerly dwelt a congregation of minor
priests, established in the thirteenth century to do curates’ work
for the canons. The little houses are very much modernised; but they
retain their tall chimneys, with carven tablets in the face, their
antique compactness and neatness, and a certain little sanctified
air as of cells in a cloister. The place is adorably of another
world and time, and, approaching it as I did in the first dimness of
twilight, it looked to me, in its exaggerated perspective, like one
of those conventional streets represented on the stage, down whose
impossible vista the heroes and confidants of romantic comedies come
swaggering arm-in-arm and hold amorous converse with heroines perched
at second-story windows. But though the Vicars’ Close is a curious
affair enough, the great boast of Wells is its episcopal Palace. The
Palace loses nothing from being seen for the first time in the kindly
twilight, and from being approached with an uncautioned mind. To reach
it (unless you go from within the cathedral by the cloisters), you pass
out of the Green by another ancient gateway into the market-place, and
thence back again through its own peculiar portal. My own first glimpse
of it had all the felicity of a _coup de théâtre_. I saw within the
dark archway an enclosure bedimmed at once with the shadows of trees
and heightened with the glitter of water. The picture was worthy of
this agreeable promise. Its main feature is the little grey-walled
island on which the Palace stands, rising in feudal fashion out of a
broad, clear moat, flanked with round towers and approached by a proper
drawbridge. Along the outer side of the moat is a short walk beneath a
row of picturesquely stunted elms; swans and ducks disport themselves
in the current and ripple the bright shadows of the overclambering
plants from the episcopal gardens and masses of wall-flower lodged on
the hoary battlements. On the evening of my visit the haymakers were
at work on a great sloping field in the rear of the Palace, and the
sweet perfume of the tumbled grass in the dusky air seemed all that
was wanting to fix the scene for ever in the memory. Beyond the moat
and within the grey walls dwells my lord Bishop, in the finest seat
of all his order. The mansion dates from the thirteenth century; but,
stately dwelling though it is, it occupies but a subordinate place in
its own grounds. Their great ornament, picturesquely speaking, is the
massive ruin of a banqueting-hall erected by a free-living mediæval
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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