England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
The compensation is that material does arise; that there is a great
variety, if not morbid subtlety; and that the whole of the procession
of events and topics passes across your stage. For the moment I am
speaking of the inspiration there may be in the sense of far frontiers;
the London-lover loses himself in this swelling consciousness,
delights in the idea that the town which encloses him is after all
only a paved country, a state by itself. This is his condition of mind
quite as much if he be an adoptive as if he be a matter-of-course
son. I am by no means sure even that he need be of Anglo-Saxon race
and have inherited the birthright of English speech; though, on the
other hand, I make no doubt that these advantages minister greatly
to closeness of allegiance. The great city spreads her dusky mantle
over innumerable races and creeds, and I believe there is scarcely
a known form of worship that has not some temple there (have I not
attended at the Church of Humanity, in Lamb’s Conduit, in company with
an American lady, a vague old gentleman, and several seamstresses?) or
any communion of men that has not some club or guild. London is indeed
an epitome of the round world, and just as it is a commonplace to say
that there is nothing one can’t “get” there, so it is equally true that
there is nothing one may not study at first hand.
One doesn’t test these truths every day, but they form part of the air
one breathes (and welcome, says the London-hater,—for there be such
perverse reasoners,—to the pestilent compound). They colour the thick,
dim distances which in my opinion are the most romantic town-vistas in
the world; they mingle with the troubled light to which the straight,
ungarnished aperture in one’s dull, undistinctive house-front affords
a passage and which makes an interior of friendly corners, mysterious
tones, and unbetrayed ingenuities, as well as with the low, magnificent
medium of the sky, where the smoke and fog and the weather in general,
the strangely undefined hour of the day and season of the year, the
emanations of industries and the reflection of furnaces, the red
gleams and blurs that may or may not be of sunset—as you never see any
_source_ of radiance, you can’t in the least tell—all hang together
in a confusion, a complication, a shifting but irremoveable canopy.
They form the undertone of the deep, perpetual voice of the place.
One remembers them when one’s loyalty is on the defensive; when it is
a question of introducing as many striking features as possible into
the list of fine reasons one has sometimes to draw up, that eloquent
catalogue with which one confronts the hostile indictment—the array
of _other_ reasons which may easily be as long as one’s arm. According
to these other reasons it plausibly and conclusively stands that, as a
place to be happy in, London will never do. I don’t say it is necessary
to meet so absurd an allegation except for one’s personal complacency.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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