Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
To-morrow dawns so fair that two of the party agree to walk back for
exercise, and let their kidnap-sacks follow by the trap. I need hardly
say they are neither of them French; for, of all English phrases, the
phrase ‘for exercise’ is the least comprehensible across the Straits of
Dover. All goes well for a while with the pedestrians. The wet woods
are full of scents in the noontide. At a certain cross, where there is a
guardhouse, they make a halt, for the forester’s wife is the daughter of
their good host at Barbizon. And so there they are hospitably received
by the comely woman, with one child in her arms and another prattling and
tottering at her gown, and drink some syrup of quince in the back
parlour, with a map of the forest on the wall, and some prints of
love-affairs and the great Napoleon hunting. As they draw near the
Quadrilateral, and hear once more the report of the big guns, they take a
by-road to avoid the sentries, and go on a while somewhat vaguely, with
the sound of the cannon in their ears and the rain beginning to fall.
The ways grow wider and sandier; here and there there are real
sand-hills, as though by the sea-shore; the fir-wood is open and grows in
clumps upon the hillocks, and the race of sign-posts is no more. One
begins to look at the other doubtfully. ‘I am sure we should keep more
to the right,’ says one; and the other is just as certain they should
hold to the left. And now, suddenly, the heavens open, and the rain
falls ‘sheer and strong and loud,’ as out of a shower-bath. In a moment
they are as wet as shipwrecked sailors. They cannot see out of their
eyes for the drift, and the water churns and gurgles in their boots.
They leave the track and try across country with a gambler’s desperation,
for it seems as if it were impossible to make the situation worse; and,
for the next hour, go scrambling from boulder to boulder, or plod along
paths that are now no more than rivulets, and across waste clearings
where the scattered shells and broken fir-trees tell all too plainly of
the cannon in the distance. And meantime the cannon grumble out
responses to the grumbling thunder. There is such a mixture of melodrama
and sheer discomfort about all this, it is at once so grey and so lurid,
that it is far more agreeable to read and write about by the
chimney-corner than to suffer in the person. At last they chance on the
right path, and make Franchard in the early evening, the sorriest pair of
wanderers that ever welcomed English ale. Thence, by the Bois d’Hyver,
the Ventes-Alexandre, and the Pins Brulés, to the clean hostelry, dry
clothes, and dinner.
THE WOODS IN SPRING
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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