Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
I think you will like the forest best in the sharp early springtime, when
it is just beginning to reawaken, and innumerable violets peep from among
the fallen leaves; when two or three people at most sit down to dinner,
and, at table, you will do well to keep a rug about your knees, for the
nights are chill, and the salle-à-manger opens on the court. There is
less to distract the attention, for one thing, and the forest is more
itself. It is not bedotted with artists’ sunshades as with unknown
mushrooms, nor bestrewn with the remains of English picnics. The hunting
still goes on, and at any moment your heart may be brought into your
mouth as you hear far-away horns; or you may be told by an agitated
peasant that the Vicomte has gone up the avenue, not ten minutes since,
‘_à fond de train_, _monsieur_, _et avec douze pipuers_.’
If you go up to some coign of vantage in the system of low hills that
permeates the forest, you will see many different tracts of country, each
of its own cold and melancholy neutral tint, and all mixed together and
mingled the one into the other at the seams. You will see tracts of
leafless beeches of a faint yellowish grey, and leafless oaks a little
ruddier in the hue. Then zones of pine of a solemn green; and, dotted
among the pines, or standing by themselves in rocky clearings, the
delicate, snow-white trunks of birches, spreading out into snow-white
branches yet more delicate, and crowned and canopied with a purple haze
of twigs. And then a long, bare ridge of tumbled boulders, with bright
sand-breaks between them, and wavering sandy roads among the bracken and
brown heather. It is all rather cold and unhomely. It has not the
perfect beauty, nor the gem-like colouring, of the wood in the later
year, when it is no more than one vast colonnade of verdant shadow,
tremulous with insects, intersected here and there by lanes of sunlight
set in purple heather. The loveliness of the woods in March is not,
assuredly, of this blowzy rustic type. It is made sharp with a grain of
salt, with a touch of ugliness. It has a sting like the sting of bitter
ale; you acquire the love of it as men acquire a taste for olives. And
the wonderful clear, pure air wells into your lungs the while by
voluptuous inhalations, and makes the eyes bright, and sets the heart
tinkling to a new tune—or, rather, to an old tune; for you remember in
your boyhood something akin to this spirit of adventure, this thirst for
exploration, that now takes you masterfully by the hand, plunges you into
many a deep grove, and drags you over many a stony crest. It is as if
the whole wood were full of friendly voice, calling you farther in, and
you turn from one side to another, like Buridan’s donkey, in a maze of
pleasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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