Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
Comely beeches send up their white, straight, clustered branches, barred
with green moss, like so many fingers from a half-clenched hand. Mighty
oaks stand to the ankles in a fine tracery of underwood; thence the tall
shaft climbs upwards, and the great forest of stalwart boughs spreads out
into the golden evening sky, where the rooks are flying and calling. On
the sward of the Bois d’Hyver the firs stand well asunder with outspread
arms, like fencers saluting; and the air smells of resin all around, and
the sound of the axe is rarely still. But strangest of all, and in
appearance oldest of all, are the dim and wizard upland districts of
young wood. The ground is carpeted with fir-tassel, and strewn with
fir-apples and flakes of fallen bark. Rocks lie crouching in the
thicket, guttered with rain, tufted with lichen, white with years and the
rigours of the changeful seasons. Brown and yellow butterflies are sown
and carried away again by the light air—like thistledown. The loneliness
of these coverts is so excessive, that there are moments when pleasure
draws to the verge of fear. You listen and listen for some noise to
break the silence, till you grow half mesmerised by the intensity of the
strain; your sense of your own identity is troubled; your brain reels,
like that of some gymnosophist poring on his own nose in Asiatic jungles;
and should you see your own outspread feet, you see them, not as anything
of yours, but as a feature of the scene around you.
Still the forest is always, but the stillness is not always unbroken.
You can hear the wind pass in the distance over the tree-tops; sometimes
briefly, like the noise of a train; sometimes with a long steady rush,
like the breaking of waves. And sometimes, close at band, the branches
move, a moan goes through the thicket, and the wood thrills to its heart.
Perhaps you may hear a carriage on the road to Fontainebleau, a bird
gives a dry continual chirp, the dead leaves rustle underfoot, or you may
time your steps to the steady recurrent strokes of the woodman’s axe.
From time to time, over the low grounds, a flight of rooks goes by; and
from time to time the cooing of wild doves falls upon the ear, not sweet
and rich and near at hand as in England, but a sort of voice of the
woods, thin and far away, as fits these solemn places. Or you hear
suddenly the hollow, eager, violent barking of dogs; scared deer flit
past you through the fringes of the wood; then a man or two running, in
green blouse, with gun and game-bag on a bandoleer; and then, out of the
thick of the trees, comes the jar of rifle-shots. Or perhaps the hounds
are out, and horns are blown, and scarlet-coated huntsmen flash through
the clearings, and the solid noise of horses galloping passes below you,
where you sit perched among the rocks and heather. The boar is afoot,
and all over the forest, and in all neighbouring villages, there is a
vague excitement and a vague hope; for who knows whither the chase may
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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