Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
Again, this people is eager to proselytise; and the postmaster’s daughter
used to argue with me by the half-hour about my heresy, until she grew
quite flushed. I have heard the reverse process going on between a
Scotswoman and a French girl; and the arguments in the two cases were
identical. Each apostle based her claim on the superior virtue and
attainments of her clergy, and clenched the business with a threat of
hell-fire. ‘_Pas bong prêtres ici_,’ said the Presbyterian, ‘_bong
prêtres en Ecosse_.’ And the postmaster’s daughter, taking up the same
weapon, plied me, so to speak, with the butt of it instead of the
bayonet. We are a hopeful race, it seems, and easily persuaded for our
good. One cheerful circumstance I note in these guerilla missions, that
each side relies on hell, and Protestant and Catholic alike address
themselves to a supposed misgiving in their adversary’s heart. And I
call it cheerful, for faith is a more supporting quality than
imagination.
Here, as in Scotland, many peasant families boast a son in holy orders.
And here also, the young men have a tendency to emigrate. It is
certainly not poverty that drives them to the great cities or across the
seas, for many peasant families, I was told, have a fortune of at least
40,000 francs. The lads go forth pricked with the spirit of adventure
and the desire to rise in life, and leave their homespun elders grumbling
and wondering over the event. Once, at a village called Laussonne, I met
one of these disappointed parents: a drake who had fathered a wild swan
and seen it take wing and disappear. The wild swan in question was now
an apothecary in Brazil. He had flown by way of Bordeaux, and first
landed in America, bareheaded and barefoot, and with a single halfpenny
in his pocket. And now he was an apothecary! Such a wonderful thing is
an adventurous life! I thought he might as well have stayed at home; but
you never can tell wherein a man’s life consists, nor in what he sets his
pleasure: one to drink, another to marry, a third to write scurrilous
articles and be repeatedly caned in public, and now this fourth, perhaps,
to be an apothecary in Brazil. As for his old father, he could conceive
no reason for the lad’s behaviour. ‘I had always bread for him,’ he
said; ‘he ran away to annoy me. He loved to annoy me. He had no
gratitude.’ But at heart he was swelling with pride over his travelled
offspring, and he produced a letter out of his pocket, where, as he said,
it was rotting, a mere lump of paper rags, and waved it gloriously in the
air. ‘This comes from America,’ he cried, ‘six thousand leagues away!’
And the wine-shop audience looked upon it with a certain thrill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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