Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
At the famous bridge of Doon, Kyle, the central district of the shire of
Ayr, marches with Carrick, the most southerly. On the Carrick side of
the river rises a hill of somewhat gentle conformation, cleft with
shallow dells, and sown here and there with farms and tufts of wood.
Inland, it loses itself, joining, I suppose, the great herd of similar
hills that occupies the centre of the Lowlands. Towards the sea it
swells out the coast-line into a protuberance, like a bay-window in a
plan, and is fortified against the surf behind bold crags. This hill is
known as the Brown Hill of Carrick, or, more shortly, Brown Carrick.
It had snowed overnight. The fields were all sheeted up; they were
tucked in among the snow, and their shape was modelled through the pliant
counterpane, like children tucked in by a fond mother. The wind had made
ripples and folds upon the surface, like what the sea, in quiet weather,
leaves upon the sand. There was a frosty stifle in the air. An effusion
of coppery light on the summit of Brown Carrick showed where the sun was
trying to look through; but along the horizon clouds of cold fog had
settled down, so that there was no distinction of sky and sea. Over the
white shoulders of the headlands, or in the opening of bays, there was
nothing but a great vacancy and blackness; and the road as it drew near
the edge of the cliff seemed to skirt the shores of creation and void
space.
The snow crunched under foot, and at farms all the dogs broke out barking
as they smelt a passer-by upon the road. I met a fine old fellow, who
might have sat as the father in ‘The Cottar’s Saturday Night,’ and who
swore most heathenishly at a cow he was driving. And a little after I
scraped acquaintance with a poor body tramping out to gather cockles.
His face was wrinkled by exposure; it was broken up into flakes and
channels, like mud beginning to dry, and weathered in two colours, an
incongruous pink and grey. He had a faint air of being surprised—which,
God knows, he might well be—that life had gone so ill with him. The
shape of his trousers was in itself a jest, so strangely were they bagged
and ravelled about his knees; and his coat was all bedaubed with clay as
tough he had lain in a rain-dub during the New Year’s festivity. I will
own I was not sorry to think he had had a merry New Year, and been young
again for an evening; but I was sorry to see the mark still there. One
could not expect such an old gentleman to be much of a dandy or a great
student of respectability in dress; but there might have been a wife at
home, who had brushed out similar stains after fifty New Years, now
become old, or a round-armed daughter, who would wish to have him neat,
were it only out of self-respect and for the ploughman sweetheart when he
looks round at night. Plainly, there was nothing of this in his life,
and years and loneliness hung heavily on his old arms. He was
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