Essays; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Travel
seventy-six, he told me; and nobody would give a day’s work to a man that
age: they would think he couldn’t do it. ‘And, ’deed,’ he went on, with
a sad little chuckle, ‘’deed, I doubt if I could.’ He said goodbye to me
at a footpath, and crippled wearily off to his work. It will make your
heart ache if you think of his old fingers groping in the snow.
He told me I was to turn down beside the school-house for Dunure. And
so, when I found a lone house among the snow, and heard a babble of
childish voices from within, I struck off into a steep road leading
downwards to the sea. Dunure lies close under the steep hill: a haven
among the rocks, a breakwater in consummate disrepair, much apparatus for
drying nets, and a score or so of fishers’ houses. Hard by, a few shards
of ruined castle overhang the sea, a few vaults, and one tall gable
honeycombed with windows. The snow lay on the beach to the tidemark. It
was daubed on to the sills of the ruin: it roosted in the crannies of the
rock like white sea-birds; even on outlying reefs there would be a little
cock of snow, like a toy lighthouse. Everything was grey and white in a
cold and dolorous sort of shepherd’s plaid. In the profound silence,
broken only by the noise of oars at sea, a horn was sounded twice; and I
saw the postman, girt with two bags, pause a moment at the end of the
clachan for letters.
It is, perhaps, characteristic of Dunure that none were brought him.
The people at the public-house did not seem well pleased to see me, and
though I would fain have stayed by the kitchen fire, sent me ‘ben the
hoose’ into the guest-room. This guest-room at Dunure was painted in
quite æsthetic fashion. There are rooms in the same taste not a hundred
miles from London, where persons of an extreme sensibility meet together
without embarrassment. It was all in a fine dull bottle-green and black;
a grave harmonious piece of colouring, with nothing, so far as coarser
folk can judge, to hurt the better feelings of the most exquisite purist.
A cherry-red half window-blind kept up an imaginary warmth in the cold
room, and threw quite a glow on the floor. Twelve cockle-shells and a
half-penny china figure were ranged solemnly along the mantel-shelf.
Even the spittoon was an original note, and instead of sawdust contained
sea-shells. And as for the hearthrug, it would merit an article to
itself, and a coloured diagram to help the text. It was patchwork, but
the patchwork of the poor; no glowing shreds of old brocade and Chinese
silk, shaken together in the kaleidoscope of some tasteful housewife’s
fancy; but a work of art in its own way, and plainly a labour of love.
The patches came exclusively from people’s raiment. There was no colour
more brilliant than a heather mixture; ‘My Johnny’s grey breeks,’ well
polished over the oar on the boat’s thwart, entered largely into its
composition. And the spoils of an old black cloth coat, that had been
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account