lives, built expensive houses, added acre to acre, and fell into the
hands of the foreign money-lenders of Corinth or Patras. The latter sank
lower and lower in the social scale, and it was noticed that, while the
Greek women had become more beautiful, the classic grace of Hellenic
manhood had declined. But Greece continued to exercise her perennial
charm on the cultured traveller. In spite of the Thessalian brigands,
tourists journeyed to see the Vale of Tempe, and a race of loquacious
guides arose, whose business it was to explain the history of Delphi. Men
of the highest rank were proud to be made Athenian citizens, and one of
them, Antiochos Philopappos, grandson of the last king of Kommagene, was
commemorated in the last years of Trajan by the monument which is to-day
one of the most conspicuous in all Athens.
The reign of Hadrian was a very happy period for the Greeks. A lover of
both ancient and contemporary Hellas, which he visited several times,
the Imperial traveller left his mark all over the country. We may gather
from Pausanias, whose own wanderings began at this period, that there
was scarcely a single Greek city of importance which had not received
some benefit from this Emperor. Coins of Patras describe him as “the
restorer of Achaia,” Megara regarded him as her “second founder,”
Mantineia had to thank him for the restoration of her classical name.
Alive to the want of through communication between the Peloponnese and
Central Greece, he built a safe road along the Skironian cliffs, where
now the tourist looks down on the azure sea from the train that takes
him from Megara to Corinth. He provided the latter city with water by
means of an aqueduct from Lake Stymphalos, and began the aqueduct at
Athens which was completed by his successor. But this was only one of
his many Athenian improvements. His affection for Athens, where he lived
as a Greek among Greeks and had held the office of Archon Eponymos, like
Domitian, led him to assign the revenues of Cephalonia to the Athenian
treasury, to regulate the oil-trade, that important branch of Attic
commerce, his edict about which may still be read on the gate of Athena
Archegetis, to repair the theatre of Dionysos, and to present the city
with a Pantheon, a library, contained within the Stoa which still bears
his name and of which part is still standing, and a gymnasium. He also
built there a temple of Hera, and completed that of Zeus Olympios, which
had been begun by Peisistratos more than six centuries before and had
provided Sulla with spoil. The still standing columns of this magnificent
building formed the nucleus of the “new Athens,” which he founded outside
“the old city of Theseus,” and to which the Arch of Hadrian, as the
inscriptions upon it show, was intended as the entrance. With another
of his foundations, the temple of Zeus Panhellenios, was connected the
institution of the Panhellenic festival, which represented the unity of
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