consulship, the friendship of Hadrian, and the honour of instructing
the early years of Marcus Aurelius. When Verus, the colleague of the
latter in the Imperial dignity, visited Athens, it was as the guest of
the sophist of Marathon; when the University was founded, it was Herodes
who selected the professors. The charm of his villas at Kephisia, then,
as now, the suburban pleasaunce of the dust-choked Athenians, and in
his native village, has been extolled by one of his pupils, while the
Odeion which still bears his name was erected by him to the memory of
his second wife[14]. He also restored the Stadion, which had been built
by Lykourgos about five centuries earlier, and within its precincts his
body was interred. There still exist remains of his temple of Fortune,
a goddess of whom he had varied experiences. For his vast wealth and
the sense of their own inferiority caused the Athenians to revile their
benefactor, and as many of them owed him money, he was naturally regarded
as their enemy until his death. Many other Greek cities benefited by
his liberality; he built a theatre at Corinth and restored the bathing
establishment at Thermopylæ; and he was even accused of making life too
easy for his fellow-countrymen because he provided Olympia with pure
water by means of an aqueduct, of which the Exedra is still visible.
It was at this period, too, that the traveller Pausanias wrote his famous
_Description of Greece_, a work which gives a faithful account of that
country as it struck his observant eyes. Compared with what it had been
in Strabo’s time, the land seemed prosperous in the age of the Antonines,
though some districts had never recovered from the ravages of the Roman
wars. Much of Bœotia was still in the desolate state in which Sulla had
left it; Ætolia had not been inhabited since Octavian carried off its
population to Nikopolis; the lower town of Thebes was quite deserted, and
the ancient name was then, as now, confined to the ancient Akropolis,
while the sole occupants of Delos were the Athenians sent to guard the
temple. But Delphi was in a flourishing condition, the Roman colonies of
Patras and Corinth continued to prosper, and among the ancient cities of
the Peloponnese, Argos and Sparta still held the foremost rank, while the
much more modern Megalopolis, upon which such high hopes had been built,
shared the fate of Tiryns and Mycenæ. Moreover, despite the robbery of
statues by Romans from Mummius to Nero, Pausanias found a vast number
of ancient masterpieces all over the country, and even the paintings,
with which Polygnotos had adorned the Stoa Poikile at Athens, were still
visible. As for the relics of classical lore and prehistoric legend,
they abounded in every city that could boast of a hero, and the remark
of Cicero was as true in the time of Pausanias, that in a Greek town one
came upon the traces of history at every step. In the second century,
too, good Doric was still spoken by the Messenians; and, if the pure
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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