Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressions — John Shaqi
Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressionsBelloc, Hilaire
History
Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressions
Belloc, Hilaire
Algeria -- Description and travel
The rock is like those headlands which jut out from inland ranges and
dominate deep harbours; it is as bold as are such capes, and is united,
as they are, with the mass of land behind it by a neck of even
surface—the only passage by which the rock itself can be approached. On
every side but this, very sharp slopes of grass, broken by precipices,
plunge down in a mountainous way to the valleys, and at the foot of the
most sheer of these there tumbles noisily in a profound gorge the
torrent called Rummel, that is, “The Tawny,” for it is as yellow as a
lion or as sea-sand.
The trench is so deep and dark that one may stand above it towards
evening and hear the noise of the water and yet see no gleam of light
reflected from it, it runs so far below. It is this stream which has
made on the Rock of Cirta (though it is out of the true Tell and far
into the Tableland) a habitable fortress and a town; the town called
Constantine.
Such sites are very rare. Luxemburg is one, a stronghold cut off by
similar precipitous valleys. Jerusalem is another. Wherever they are
found the origin of their fortress goes back beyond the beginning of
history, they are tribal, and their record is principally of war. So it
is with Cirta. The legends of the nomads say that they descended from
some enormous dusky figure, a God of the Atlas and of Spain—a giant God
marching along the shores of the ocean followed perpetually by armies.
Even this first of African names was mixed up with Cirta, for the title
of the rock was that of his loves, and the name Cirta given it by these
horsemen of Numidia was the name of their universal mother. A man can be
certain, as he walks along the edges of the place to-day and looks down
into the gulfs below it, that men have so moved here amid buildings and
in a fixed town with altars and a name ever since first they knew how to
mortar stones together and to obey laws. The close pack of houses
standing thus apart upon a peak has in it, therefore, something
consistently sacred. Permanence and continuity are to be discovered here
only among the cities of Africa; and its landscape and character of
themselves impress the traveller with a certitude that here will be
planted on into time the capital of the native blood: too far removed
from the sea for colonisation or piracy to destroy it: too well cut off
by those trenches of defence to be sacked and overrun: too peopled and
well watered to decay.
[Illustration]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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