Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressionsBelloc, Hilaire
History
Esto perpetua : $b Algerian studies and impressions
Belloc, Hilaire
Algeria -- Description and travel
Having arrived at Batna, which is the starting-place for Timgad and also
for the desert beyond, I found that there was a good road which the
French had built going along a valley under Aurès, but that the distance
was over twenty miles. I wasted the daylight bargaining, for no one
would drive me twenty miles for less than sixteen shillings. It was
late, and in my eagerness to bargain I missed the chance of a daylight
march, for it was within an hour of sunset when the night driver who was
to start on the Tebessa road (which runs near Timgad) a little later
refused me. The poorer people whom I asked told me that no one else was
going eastward along that lonely valley, but that, if I were to reach
Timgad, I must make a night march of it or wait a night over in Batna
itself at an inn.
[Sidenote: Lamboesis]
Adventure is never to be refused, so I went out eastward alone under the
evening, and I was well rewarded, though I went hungry for hours and was
afoot nearly all the way, for I saw a great sight under the sunset, and
I met a man I shall never meet again.
The sight I saw was Lambèse, which was called Lamboesis by the Romans,
and this is what stamps it upon the mind of a lonely man before
nightfall: not what remains, for hardly anything remains, but that the
fragments which remain of it should be so far apart.
[Sidenote: The Praetorian Tower]
There is a sort of long cup or hollow here pointing at a spur of the
Atlas—that high mountain which holds up the sky. The big lift of Aurès
is on one side of this hollow, mixing into the clouds, and on the other
are isolated and uninhabited high hills. The very floor of this valley
is as high as the top of Cader Idris is in Wales; the heights beyond are
as high as the Pyrenees; and an air of desertion haunts the place. It is
impossible to forget that the Sahara is near by, down beyond the crest
of the range. For though the land is muddy and the sky full of rough
clouds and rain, yet the rain seems to make no grass and the land is
bare. In such a world there stands up before one a square and hardly
ruined tower.
[Sidenote: The Vastness of Lambèse]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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