Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442Murdoch, John
History
Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442
Murdoch, John
Eskimos -- Alaska -- Barrow, Point, Region
The hind flap of the skirt of the woman’s frock, except in Greenland,
has developed into a long narrow train reaching the ground, while the
front flap is very much decreased in size (see references just
quoted). The modern frock in Greenland is very short and has very
small flaps (see illustrations in Rink’s Tales, etc., pp. 8 and 9),
but the ancient fashion, judging from the plate in Crantz’s History of
Greenland, referred to above, was much more like that worn by the
western Eskimo. In the Anderson and Mackenzie regions the flaps are
short and rounded and the front flap considerably the smaller. There
is less difference in the general shape of the men’s frocks. The hood
is generally rounded and close fitting, except in Labrador and Baffin
Land, where it is pointed on the crown. The skirt is sometimes
prolonged into rounded flaps and a short scallop in front, as at
Iglulik and some parts of Baffin Land.[N214] Petitot[N215] gives a
full description of the dress of a “chief” from the Anderson River. He
calls the frock a “blouse échancrée par côté et terminée en queues
arrondies par devant et par derrière.” The style of frock worn at
Point Barrow is the prevalent one along the western coast of America
nearly to the Kuskokwim. On this river long hoodless frocks reaching
nearly or quite to the ground are worn.[N216] The frock worn in Kadiak
was hoodless and long, with short sleeves and large armholes beneath
these.[N217]
[Footnote N214: Parry, 2d Voy., p. 494, and 1st Voy., p. 283.]
[Footnote N215: Monographic, etc., p. xiv.]
[Footnote N216: Petroff, op. cit., p. 134, Pls. 4 and 5. See also
specimens in the National Museum.]
[Footnote N217: Petroff, op. cit., p. 139, and Liscansky, Voy.,
etc., p. 194.]
The men of the Siberian Eskimo and sedentary Chukches, as at Plover
Bay, wear in summer a loose straight-bottomed frock without a hood,
but with a frill of long fur round the neck. The winter frock is
described as having “a square hood without trimmings, but capable of
being drawn, like the mouth of a bag, around the face by a string
inserted in the edge.”[N218] According to Nordenskiöld,[N219] the men
at Pitlekaj wear the hoodless frock summer and winter, putting on one
or two separate hoods in winter. The under hood appears to be like one
or two which I saw worn at Plover Bay, namely, a close-fitting
nightcap of thin reindeer skin tied under the chin. The dress of the
Siberian women consists of frock and baggy kneebreeches in one piece,
sewed to tightfitting boots reaching to the knees.[N220]
[Footnote N218: Dall, Alaska, p. 379.]
[Footnote N219: Vega, vol. 2, p. 98.]
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