Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442Murdoch, John
History
Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition: Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442
Murdoch, John
Eskimos -- Alaska -- Barrow, Point, Region
[Footnote N220: Nordenskiöld, Vega, vol. 2, p. 100 and Fig. on
p. 57; Dall, Alaska, p. 379 and plate opposite. I also noticed
this dress at Plover Bay in 1881. Compare also Krause Brothers,
Geogr. Blätter, vol. 5, No. 1, p. 5, where the dress along the
coast from East Cape to Plover Bay is described as we saw it at
Plover Bay.]
_Mantles._--“Circular” mantles of deerskin, fastened at the neck by a
thong, and put on over the head like a poncho, are worn by the men in
very cold weather over their other clothes when lounging in the open
air about the village or watching at a seal hole or tending the seal
nets at night. The cloaks are especially affected by the older men,
who, having grown-up sons or sons-in-law, do not have to go sealing in
winter, and spend a great deal of their time in bright weather
chatting together out of doors. There is one specimen in the
collection, No. 56760 [94] (Fig. 65). It is made of fine summer
doe-reindeer skin, in three pieces, back and two sides of dark skin,
sewed to a collar of white skin from the belly of the animal. For
pattern see diagram (Fig. 66). The seams at _a_ are gored to make the
cloak hang properly from the shoulder. The collar is in two pieces,
joined in the middle, and the edge _c_ is turned over toward the hair
side and “run” down in a narrow hem. The points _b_ of the collar are
brought together in the middle and joined by a little strap of
deerskin about an inch long, so that the edge _c_ makes a round hole
for the neck. The width of the mantle is 60 inches and its depth 39.
It is worn with the white flesh side out, as is indicated by the seams
being sewed “over and over” on the hair side. All the mantles seen
were essentially of the same pattern. The edge is sometimes cut into
an ornamental fringe, and the flesh side marked with a few narrow
stripes of red ocher. This garment appears to be peculiar to
northwestern America. No mention is to be found of any such a thing
except in Mr. MacFarlane’s MS. notes, where he speaks of a deerskin
blanket “attached with a line across the shoulders in cold weather,”
among the Anderson River Eskimo. We have no means at present of
knowing whether such cloaks are worn by the coast natives between
Point Barrow and Kotzebue Sound, but one was worn by one of the
Nunata´ñmiun who were at Nuwŭk in the autumn of 1881.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.--Man’s cloak of deerskin.]
[Illustration: FIG. 66.--Pattern of man’s cloak.]
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