The immense hall was divided in the middle by a red rope. The Shah’s
division was sacred to blue blood, and there was breathing room there;
but the other corral was but a crush of struggling and perspiring
humanity. The place was brilliant with gas and was a rare spectacle in
the matter of splendid costumes and rich coloring. The lofty
stained-glass windows, pictured with celebrated episodes in the history
of the ancient city, were lighted from the outside, and one may imagine
the beauty of the effect. The great giants, Gog and Magog (whose origin
and history, curiously enough, are unknown even to tradition), looked
down from the lofty gallery, but made no observation. Down the long
sides of the hall, with but brief spaces between, were imposing groups
of marble statuary; and, contrasted with the masses of life and color
about them, they made a picturesque effect. The groups were statues (in
various attitudes) of the Duke of Wellington. I do not say this
knowingly, but only supposingly; but I never have seen a statue in
England yet that represented anybody but the Duke of Wellington, and, as
for the streets and terraces and courts and squares that are named after
him or after selections from his 797 titles, they are simply beyond the
grasp of arithmetic. This reminds me that, having named everything after
Wellington that there was left to name in England (even down to
Wellington boots), our British brothers, still unsatisfied, still
oppressed with adulation, blandly crossed over and named our Californian
big trees Wellington, and put it in Latin at that. They did that, calmly
ignoring the fact that we, the discoverers and owners of the trees, had
long ago named them after a larger man. However, if the ghost of
Wellington enjoys such a proceeding, possibly the ghost of Washington
will not greatly trouble itself about the matter. But what really
disturbs me is that, while Wellington is justly still in the fashion
here, Washington is fading out of the fashion with us. It is not a good
sign. The idols we have raised in his stead are not to our honor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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