Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921Graham, Stephen
History
Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921
Graham, Stephen
Europe -- Description and travel
I went to the Allied Passport Bureau, British Section, where a tippable
man was keeping a queue of all the rabble of the East, and I was to
come tomorrow morning. When the British section had given the visa I
went to the French, then to the Italians. One loses one's patience,
being kept waiting so long, and one breaks into a room sometimes before
one is asked. It was so with the Italians. I stepped suddenly into
the room of the man who had to initial my pass, and he was tenderly
embracing a charming brunette. He signed tacitly and rapidly and I was
gone. . . . After the Italians you seek out the Greeks who are in an
entirely different district. Outside the Consulate is a string of
photographers with cameras and ricketty chairs. The Greeks require
photographs--you sit down on a chair on the open roadway, and in a
quarter of an hour you have a sheaf of wet pictures of yourself by
which it certainly would be hard to recognize you. Inside the Greek
Consulate rages a terrific hurly-burly. You wait and perspire in a
vapour of garlic. . . . Then for the Bulgars. The Bulgars have
certainly hit on a novelty. The rubber stamp is applied to your
passport in one office and the date is written but the visa has to be
signed in another office a mile away. Are we then through with
everything? No. The Orient Express requires a doctor's certificate
that you are free from vermin and infection. For this the doctors
naturally charge a heavy fee. For my part I refused to see a doctor
and carried the matter off with a high hand at the railway station,
where they put me down as "officer in mufti." Apparently officers are
exempted from all this. It is only if you happen to be one of the
ordinary dirty and despised free citizens of Europe and not a member of
any Commission or Red Cross or Y.M.C.A., or military unit--that you go
through all this. Europe for the man in uniform!
So useful is the military uniform that some civilians carry their
ex-khaki attire in an extra suit-case and put it on when they want to
get along. I met an Englishman, ex-officer, in this get-up in the
Serbian Constituent Assembly. He could beard whom he liked in
Jugo-Slavia clad in an old uniform with ribbons. I heard of another in
Austria who was arrested at the chief station in Vienna, having four
millions of Austrian crowns on his person. Austrian crowns are worth
much more in London than in Vienna, and it is illegal to take large
quantities out of the country. But an observant speculator had
concluded that a British uniform would give him immunity from search.
In this probably he was right, but he had overdone it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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