Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921Graham, Stephen
History
Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921
Graham, Stephen
Europe -- Description and travel
The Poles, or indeed, the British, or the Americans, for we are all
tarred by the same brush, might take a lesson from the Czecho-Slovaks,
who have at Vienna a bureau which will get your passport visa and your
railway ticket for you, and reserve you a room in a hotel in Prague
without any fee. The enlightened Government of this new republic
understands that that is the best propaganda for their country which
can be done. Not that Czecho-Slovakia does not charge for a visa and
charge for permission to go out of the country. At Cheb I nearly
missed my train whilst an official was weighing up in his mind how much
he should charge for allowing me to go through without a visa.
Another aspect of the passport trouble in Europe is local nationalism
which at Budapest takes the form of insisting on asking you questions
in Hungarian and refusing to understand any other tongue. As you have
to spend hours with the police in the Magyar capital before you obtain
permission to stay there and again before you obtain permission to go
away, this is peculiarly distressing.
Under such circumstances is it surprising that there is stagnation of
peoples in Europe? This stagnation is great, and it is noticeable in
almost every great city of the continent. It is a rich time for the
hotel-keepers. There is scarcely a capital in Europe where you can
reckon on finding a room without trouble. The following experiences
are symptomatic enough: at Rome I visited about twenty hotels; shut out
for the night, got into a "strange place" about three a.m.; Stuttgart,
out all night; Sofia, visited all hotels, all full, slept in guard-room
of town-patrol; Sofia, second time, shared a room with an officer;
Vienna, toured city in a cab and found nothing; Warsaw, spent nine
hours going from hotel to hotel, got a room for a thousand-mark tip.
In Constantinople you can find cases of three families in one
apartment. Wherever you go you are going to have adventures in finding
a room, unless you are an officer or a member of an Allied Commission,
or belong to the Red Cross or Starving Children's Fund, or some
organization that has facilities for looking out for itself.
Poor old Europe! She was more of a unity in the days when we were "an
armed camp." We have broken the power of militarism. There has been a
revolution in Russia. A British statesman in the House of Commons, in
1917, said it was bliss to be alive, and to be young was very heaven.
Some millions of young men died before Armistice Day, 1918. Since then
there has been great work clearing away barbed-wire entanglements along
the old front. But it seems to be a nightmare task: entanglements
multiply upon us faster than we can clear the old ones away. You
cannot get across Europe because of the obstructions: you cannot
circulate.
LETTERS OF TRAVEL
II. FROM CONSTANTINOPLE (I)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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