Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921Graham, Stephen
History
Europe—whither bound? (Quo vadis Europa?) : $b being letters of travel from the capitals of Europe in the year 1921
Graham, Stephen
Europe -- Description and travel
The Russians have got Constantinople at last. It is an irony of Fate.
There are a hundred thousand of them there, the best blood of Russia,
and the most charming and delightful people in Europe in themselves,
though now almost entirely destitute of means. A large Russian army
without arms is not very far away, and a Russian generalissimo without
power stays in his yacht at Galata. The great city has been outwardly
transformed by the Russians who seem at first to have taken over all
the business and to have dispossessed innumerable Turks and Greeks.
Russian is the predominant language; all the best restaurants and many
of the shops seem to be Russian, and Russian pedlars in scores cry
their wares in the streets. Greek and Turkish business is modest and
retiring, but everything Russian is advertised by large artistic signs.
The gleaming lights of innumerable "Lotto Parlours" catch the eye, you
pass with the rolling crowd into the cabaret, the music-hall, the
theatre, the cafe, the restaurant, the book-shop--all Russian. You see
the establishments of Russian doctors, lawyers, dentists,
dancing-masters. In an improvised wooden hut you see a celebrated
portrait-painter sitting, ready to paint you whilst you wait or execute
commissions of any kind. The restaurants all have Russian names and
sometimes refer back to business left behind in Russia--the restaurant
"Birzha" from Rostof, "Kievsky Ugolok" from Kiev, "Veliky Moskovsky
Kruzhok," the "Yar," and the like. These are very tastefully arranged
and the cooking is excellent, being under the supervision of celebrated
Russian chefs. Thus at the "Kievsky Ugolok" it is well known that the
cook of Prince Vorontsof is in charge, and the restaurant does not
merely live by reputation but an excellence of cuisine testifies in
itself to some master-hand. The waitresses at most of these Russian
establishments are often women of society, and some of them very
beautiful in the simplicity of uniform. There is a fascinating added
pleasure in being waited upon by such gracious women, but the heart
aches for the fate of some of them. On each table is a ticket with the
name and patronymic of the waitress, thus, Tatiana Mihailovna, or
Sophia Vladimirovna. They are on a level with those they serve, and
the women embrace them, the men kiss their hands. Naturally there are
no such things as tips; service is charged for in the bill. Elegance
mingles with melancholy. Russians meet and talk endlessly, and sigh
for Russia, and the Russian music croons the night long from the
musicians' gallery or orchestra.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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