Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
Mr. Gliddon, whose kindness on this and other occasions has placed us
under many obligations, had secured boats for us, and towards sunset
our arrangements for the inland voyage were completed. We then hoisted
the American ensign at the peaks of our little flotilla, and dropping
the large sails to a fresh and favorable breeze, the city and its
shipping soon glided from our sight. After passing near the elevated
ground on which stands Pompey’s Pillar, and then by a few country-seats
of the nobles of Alexandria, we entered upon an open, dreary waste,
and night began soon after to sink around us, and upon the still and
melancholy scene; for, except our rushing boats, not a sight nor a
sound met the senses, which soon became actually oppressed by the
solitude. A dim moon threw a flickering and uncertain light upon the
banks, and it required but little effort of the imagination, as we
watched them flitting by, to make out shadowy forms, and cover the
place with the phantoms of the many poor victims sacrificed and buried
there.
But had they actually risen up, the whole 30,000, and pointed their
bony fingers and gibbered at us as we passed, they would scarcely
have exceeded in numbers or terror the blood-thirsty tormentors that
soon after this assailed us in the little cabins in our boats. We had
extinguished our lights and laid down for repose, but repose there
was none for us. The reader must excuse me if I draw such a nauseous
picture; it is not fair that he should travel without sharing some of
the pains of travelling, nor can he otherwise get a correct idea of
the country. We soon found ourselves literally covered with vermin,
whose bite, though dreadfully annoying, left us uncertain whether they
were the animal that sometimes chooses our beds for their residence,
or those that constituted the third plague of Egypt; and during the
long night, while stung almost to madness, we were left to weigh the
evidence in this agreeable query. The latter insects are, at certain
seasons, common in every part of Egypt; and Sir Sidney Smith, having
removed his tent to the desert, in order to escape from them, found
them even among its sands. It was really quite a relief to us, when
morning came, to find that our clothes were thickly sprinkled over
with only the former less terrible insect. It was a long and wearisome
night. I climbed the mast once or twice to cool my blood and seek for
relief by gazing around; but only a flat, and utterly deserted country
met the sight, and the ear could not detect a single sound; the hooting
of an owl would have been a pleasant relief.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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