Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
On the morning of the 18th we started for Bethlehem, which lies at the
distance of about five miles from Jerusalem on the south. Leaving by
the Jaffa gate, and crossing by difficult paths the valley of Hinnom,
we had then before us an elevated plain bordered eastwardly by the
valley of Jehoshaphat, about two miles wide, and extending three miles
toward the south, in which direction it has a slight ascent. As we
passed on, a troop of cavalry, which had been out at their morning
drill, came sweeping along on our left; but when they had passed us,
we were left alone in the open country, where scarcely a sign of
cultivation appeared. A blight has for a great many years been upon
this doomed and unhappy land. At the distance of about two miles from
the city, we came to a well, called “the well of the kings,” or, “the
well of the star,” from a tradition that when the wise men had left
Jerusalem for Bethlehem, and had reached this place, the star (Matthew
ii. 9.) appeared again, and led them on to the couch of the infant
Messiah. At the extremity of this plain, and on a height commanding
a view both of Jerusalem and Bethlehem, is the Greek monastery of
Elijah, where is one of the sacred places of the country. “Here,” says
el Devoto Peregrino, “is a rock impressed by the body of the holy
prophet, as natural as if it had been stamped there; for we see the
head, the shoulders, the ribs and body, extended horizontally. This is
the place to which the holy prophet retired to contemplate the future
Messiah; and where, looking towards Bethlehem, he saw him enveloped
in coarse swaddling clothes, but surrounded by angels, singing glory
to God in the highest; and, looking towards Jerusalem, saw him nailed
to the cross and crowned with thorns, while the multitude around were
blaspheming and insulting him.”
Sandys, in his quaint style, remarks of it: “Hard by is a flat rock,
whereon they told us that the prophet was accustomed to sleepe, and
that it beares as yet the impression of his body. Indeed, there are
certaine hollowes in the same, but not by mine eyes apprehended to
retaine any manly proportions.”
I speak of the place from the authority of others, for I felt no
disposition at the time to trouble myself with matters of this nature.
Indeed, it requires a constant effort in travellers among these places
to keep the mind free from disgust, and from the baneful effects
of the errors, that, like leeches, have fastened themselves to the
truth, covering and deforming it, and exhausting its power, while they
themselves live on its fading strength.
The monastery is surrounded by a strong wall, and looks as if it might
be a place adapted as much for defence as for devotion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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