Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
Bethlehem here came into full view, though more than two miles distant;
the country between it and us, although broken, being rather low,
and the town itself being situated on an eminence of steep ascent.
On the way, we left, at a short distance on our right hand, a small
square edifice surmounted by a dome, evidently a modern structure,
but called the tomb of Rachael, and regarded by Moslems as well as by
the Christian sects here with high respect. Further on to our left,
and below the town of Bethlehem, was a small valley, covered even at
this hot season with a refreshing verdure; and here they inform us the
shepherds were watching their flocks by night, when the angel appeared
to announce glad tidings of great joy, the birth of “a Saviour, which
is Christ the Lord.” Near this is also a well, said to be the one
from which David’s three “mighty men” procured him water at the risk
of their lives. Passing these spots, we soon after arrived at the
outskirts of Bethlehem; and as our large cavalcade wound up the steep
ascent, the whole population of the place came crowding along the way,
hanging over the rude walls, and filling every door and window. They
are all Christians in name, though they bear an indifferent character;
and, what in these countries strikes one with surprise, the women
appeared with their faces exposed, and frequently very good-looking
faces they were. Our arrival seemed to excite a very unusual sensation,
which I was able to account for by and by, when one of the men, taking
me aside in the convent, asked seriously whether the report was true,
“that we had come to take the place from the Egyptian Pasha.” They
bear no good feeling towards the Moslem power, and have always been
refractory and troublesome subjects to the Porte; their insulated
situation, and the facilities for retiring to mountain fastnesses in
the wild country around, encouraging in them bold and independent
habits. We were informed that when the general order from Mohammed Ali
for disarming the populace of Syria was carried to them, they sent in
about a dozen muskets, saying, that these were all they had; nor could
any threats wrest more from them, though the place has three or four
hundred fighting men well equipped. The town is situated on a piece
of isolated table land, of sudden elevation on every side. On the
east this runs out into a narrow tongue, and at the extremity of this
projection, 200 yards distant from the village, are the monastery and
church of the Franciscans, covering the spot where the Messiah was born.
The recent earthquake had rent the massive walls of these edifices,
but not so as to endanger them, and we met with a ready and hospitable
reception beneath the roof. The door of entrance is low and strong,
and every where in this country is the traveller reminded of the
insecurity of life and property; and, unless people would live there
with a martyr’s spirit, of the necessity of being constantly prepared
for defence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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