Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
Having rested by a stream at the edge of the gardens till our
straggling party had all come up, we passed on, and entering one
of the city gates, were soon in a labyrinth of bazaars and narrow
streets. Our large cavalcade attracted considerable attention as we
rode unceremoniously along, our baggage mules frequently brushing the
natives and forcing for themselves a wide passage amid the crowds. Many
looks of dark and angry import were turned upon us, but no one offered
any molestation; and with the exception of their scowling looks, they
were sufficiently respectful. It was only about a year before this
that De La Martine, on approaching the city, found it advisable to
stop at one of the neighboring villages, and change his European for
the Turkish dress. The iron hand of the Egyptian Pasha, wherever it
lights, makes itself felt. It is now as safe to travel in Egypt as
in our own country; and will soon be so in Palestine, and also about
Damascus, which, until quite lately, was, and indeed probably still
is, one of the most fanatical cities in the world. In this city there
has already been a surprising change. During our visit we went freely
among the bazaars, sometimes all in company, and sometimes in small
parties or singly; and though attracting such crowds that the streets
were often actually blocked up, and it was difficult for the citizens
to get along, all were respectful; nor, as far as we know, was even an
opprobrious epithet ever used.
The Armenian gentleman who had been our companion in the journey,
had offered the hospitality of his house, and now led us on through
the city for nearly a mile, when at length we came to a stand. We
were in a street, narrow like all the rest, (the bazaars excepted,)
and alongside of a house that seemed to give promise of nothing but
poverty. Its exterior was rough and coarse; and the walls bulging
out here and there, looked as if waiting to tumble on our heads and
crush us, rather than to give us shelter. We entered by a low narrow
door into a passage, also narrow and dark; and great indeed was our
surprise at the scene which broke upon us when we reached its further
end. We afterwards visited all the celebrated palaces of the city, and
found the exterior of all of them of a character similar to this. On
the outside they are coarse and wretched looking buildings, seemingly
ready to crumble and fall to pieces; and the appearance of poverty is
probably intentional, in order to save the inmates from the exactions
of an arbitrary and oppressive government. But for this, ample amends
are made in the interior.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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