Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
Our horses, on reaching this bloody court, seemed themselves to be
seized with the very spirit of violence; for pricking their ears,
they rushed up the steep ascent with headlong speed, and, whirling
through Saladin’s court, and then through a larger one, brought us up
at length in front of the governor’s palace. It is a long building
and spacious, but is otherwise by no means remarkable. Abdi Effendi
has been in England and France, and speaks the language of the latter
country fluently. He received us with great politeness, and entertained
us with the usual eastern hospitalities. His questions with regard
to our own country were pertinent, and evinced a good knowledge of
its laws and institutions. He spoke in terms of high admiration of
his own sovereign; and indeed Mohammed Ali seems to have the faculty
of creating a strong attachment for himself in all his officers. The
governor said that if the Pasha could live twenty years longer, he
would make Egypt more civilized and more prosperous than it has ever
yet been; but added, that he stood all alone, and greatly needed some
one who could be a second self to him.
From the audience-hall we were taken to visit a number of schools
in the same building; they occupy a number of rooms, and contained
altogether four hundred youths, preparing for public employments in
the country. As far as I could judge, they seemed to be awkwardly
conducted. At the extreme end of the building we came to the Hall of
Justice, where, on an ottoman and all alone, sat the judge, a man of
prodigious corporeal dimensions. He was at this time unemployed, but
our attention was drawn to a new mat with which the floor was covered.
It had just been put down in place of one that, a few days before,
had been worn through by the writhings of a poor wretch, who had been
bastinadoed here; the punishment having followed close on the heels, if
not of justice, at least of the culprit.
The adjoining side of the court into which this palace looks, is
formed by a large palace of Mohammed Ali, to which, in the course of
sight-seeing, we were next conducted. It is quite new, and in some
parts not quite finished; and is more remarkable for the airy and
spacious character of the rooms than for any beauties of architecture.
Indeed, all the palaces which we visited in Egypt, though cool and
spacious, are marked by great simplicity. A hall of great width passes
across at the centre of the building, and is intersected by another
of somewhat narrower dimensions, running lengthwise; and thus at each
angle a chamber is formed. These chambers are carpeted, and have the
most luxurious ottomans passing quite around. These, with sometimes
a glass lustre suspended from the lofty ceiling, constitute the only
furniture. In the palace, which we were now visiting, the ottomans
were covered with the richest French silks, with raised figures in
beautiful patterns worked on them. In front of the seats hung down an
impenetrable veil of silken tassels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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