Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
It was with the most sincere pleasure that we learned that Commodore
Patterson had decided in favor of this excursion. Dim land of embalmed
and faded greatness, that, from the searments of the tomb, dost murmur
to us in solemn and mystic language, we should see thee then! we
should stand on the banks of the Nile, where even Nature herself is
shrouded in unusual obscurity: we should look down from the summits
of the Pyramids, those monuments on which all ages have gazed with
wonder, and where they have speculated in vain. I had myself just been
living in a squatter’s cabin in Indiana, and anticipated with keen
relish the strong contrast that would here be presented. I had come
from witnessing the first elements of society forming into order, to
see the monuments of a people ancient even in the most ancient times;
from watching the conflicts of separate individual interests, to
behold the “vast expanse of ages and nations;” from wandering amid the
primeval solitudes of nature, to wander amid the solitudes of deserted
cities; and from witnessing the first efforts for human greatness to
contemplate its end.
Mohammed Ali had left as his representative, Boghaz Bey, an Armenian
of talent and energy, who enjoys his highest confidence; and while
preparations were making for our journey, the Commodore, with Capt.
Nicolson and Mr. Gliddon, went to pay him a visit of ceremony. On
application being made to him for passports to Cairo, he replied, that
they would be unnecessary; that he would consider Com. Patterson as
the guest of the Pasha, and, as soon as we should start, would forward
orders by telegraph to the river, to have boats provided, and to Cairo
to have the party treated with every attention.
On the 16th we transferred ourselves, together with conveniences for
cooking and sleeping, to the decks of the schooner, and were landed
towards evening near the mouth of the great canal of Mahmoudieh. This
canal was the first of the many proofs which our journey led us to
witness of the wonderful enterprize and energy of Mohammed Ali, whom
the reader, when he has followed us further, will, I think, agree with
us in considering one of the greatest sovereigns of the age. In some
respects we must also allow his government to be marked by singular
short-sightedness and weakness; but on this point it is only fair to
let him speak for himself, which we shall presently allow him to do.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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