Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
This was our first view and first impression of Jerusalem. To myself,
however, little time was given for observation. The Commodore
called for me; and telling me that as this was a city in the line
of my profession, they must look to me to provide quarters for the
company--said he wished me to ride forward rapidly, and see where
we could find accommodations. So I changed my humble donkey for a
spirited steed, and taking for interpreter a young Arab officer who
had accompanied us from Jaffa, set forward at a pace that made us
look more like crusading knights at a tilt than peaceable pilgrims.
The gates, which are usually closed at sunset, we found were kept
open in expectation of the arrival of our party, and a large number
of citizens were standing in groups without. On our drawing up and
inquiring the way to the house of Mr. Nicholayson, the missionary from
England, he himself stept forward and gave us a hearty welcome. His
house he immediately placed at our disposal, but on his inquiring how
many there might be in the party, and receiving my answer, “I think
about seventy,” he stood aghast. A company of seven or a dozen, the
number as he had supposed our company, he could readily accommodate,
and his house was cordially at our service for as many as it would
hold; but where to find accommodations for seventy he could not tell,
some of the monasteries, the usual resort of pilgrims, being now, he
said, in quarantine on account of the plague. We turned into the city,
however, to make an effort; and crossing an irregular open area, and
then winding down some dark narrow streets, stopped at length at a low
gate in the face of a high massy wall. It admitted us into the chief
Latin convent; but the Prior, on our being presented, said that nearly
all the building was in quarantine, some of the monks having recently
died of the plague, and that an adjacent establishment belonging to his
order was in a similar situation. Foiled here, we proceeded on a little
further, and on applying, though with reluctance, at the Greek convent,
were successful; their large building, forming a hollow square with a
court in the centre, being given up to us. We returned forthwith, and
found that our company had already entered the city, and in attempting
to follow us, had got jammed up in one of the narrow streets, where a
scene of vexatious and yet amusing confusion was just commencing; the
baggage mules with their broad panniers and projecting loads sticking
fast between the opposite houses, and, in their efforts to extricate
themselves, taking little note of rank or office; while torches
glancing here and there upon pistol and cutlass, and the dusty, and
jaded, and sometimes disconsolate looking features of our companions,
mixed up with the wild and curious gaze of the natives, assisted in
making up a singular scene. They had just learned the result of our
application at the Latin convent; and to a wearied man, the idea of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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