Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
passing the night in such rough and odoriferous streets as these,
could not be a pleasing one. They were highly gratified to find that
we had at length been able to procure quarters. The Commodore and his
family were invited to the house of Mr. Nicholayson, where, among the
kind and agreeable members of his family, they soon found themselves
in a pleasant home; while the rest of us, passing through the low
strong portal of the convent, and emerging by and by from the dark
narrow passage, into the enclosed court, turned to see what species of
accommodation we were to have. The prospect seemed melancholy enough.
Around the court was a range of buildings, three fourths of which were
given up to us, the remaining fourth being occupied by the Prior’s
rooms and offices of the church, and by the church itself. The lower
part of our portion of the edifice was occupied as stables, kitchen,
granary, &c.; and gave also accommodation to some of our party.
Ascending from this by a large stairway, we entered on a platform
passing around three sides of the court, with a parapet along its
interior edge, while on its opposite border was a range of cells, which
we found on inquiry were to be our dormitories. Tired as we were, we
recoiled from the sight of them. They were usually about eight or nine
feet square, and so low that a person could scarcely stand upright in
them; a broken door, a hole for a window, a stone or mortar floor, and
a thin reed mat, and dust in the greatest abundance--this was the
sight that presented itself as we came to examine our domicils. Some
joked, some took it all in quiet, and some said “it was really too
bad.” But uncomfortable as these abodes appeared to us, other creatures
did not seem to think them so, for they were really well tenanted; and
when our lights were extinguished, and we had wrapped ourselves each
in his blanket, and had stretched ourselves on the stone floor, we
soon discovered how far from solitary was the life of our friends the
monks. Our chambers were alive with lilliputians, which immediately
commenced an attack on us. As D., and S., and myself, were lying in our
little room, we first heard some notes of distress on the outside, and
occasionally an exclamation of “Hollo, are you out here too?” and then
there was a general cry--“I can’t bear this any longer;” and we rushed
out to the platform to which we found every cell ejecting its inmates.
We did not get asleep until nature, towards morning, was absolutely
worn out, when the fleas, having worried us into utter exhaustion, were
allowed to gorge themselves at their leisure. The reader may perhaps
think that I might have spared him this scene, which is not a pleasant
one, and must jar on the feelings of one who would come with other
sensations, and be occupied with other thoughts, in this city of solemn
and touching associations; but my impression is, that he would like to
see the modern city as it is, and I wish also, as far as possible, to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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