Expedition to discover the sources of the White Nile, in the years 1840, 1841, Vol. 1 (of 2)Werne, Ferdinand
History
Expedition to discover the sources of the White Nile, in the years 1840, 1841, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Werne, Ferdinand
Nile River
After a tedious journey of three months, we arrived here. The
Muslims perceived the French flag hoisted as a matter of precaution,
as it generally prevents the ship being taken away for the use of
Bilik (government), and they crossed over to the Douaniers, who
never lose sight of their prey: we were truly glad to find human
beings again. Our flag was known by no one except by Vaissière,
who gave vent to an old grudge against the Prussians, and excited
a prejudice against us among the Italians, which was so much the
greater, because a noble example of Prussian manners and customs had
caused an uncommon sensation here in Khartùm. The long title of my
countryman was hardly perceptible on the fragments of pots, whereon
we read “Puckler-Muscau,” called and supposed by the common
people to be “Sultan betal Moscow.” However, they tendered their
services to us with uncommon hospitality, letters having preceded
us which possibly described us as harmless fellows,—except one,
a German letter. A Frank, in white Turkish costume, addressed us,
like a shade from the lower regions, in the German language: we
were surprised, and especially when he asked about a letter from
my countryman ——, which at the best, therefore, must have been
an Uriah’s letter. The pale citizen of Khartùm calls himself a
peasant (from the neighbourhood of Wurzburg), and is now inspector
of manufactories in Kamlin.
A letter, full of low calumny, from my amiable friend had found
its way even to him, although I had not done him any injury; but
he was too well known. He had, in a peculiar sense of the word,
given me letters of recommendation against my will, not only
here, but in Cairo, to which city he took the trouble of writing
three. It is the curse of a prolonged residence in the South that the
character of Europeans, and particularly of the northern nations,
alters more or less in course of time. Slumbering passions display
themselves in an odious and very dangerous manner; the cat becomes
a tiger raging against itself, if the spirits of Ahriman,—brandy,
and opium,—have him betwixt them;—and at last he is mocked and
laughed at. A choice of companions, who might be called “good and
bad, or high and low,” was not to be found among the few Franks
in Khartùm. They live a cat and dog life with each other, but are
breathing witnesses that this is the land of the Lotophagi; for, from
their frequent convivia and bacchanalia, they might be supposed to
be bursting with love and friendship. Whoever is really in earnest
to acquire general information on the manners and customs of the
East, and to increase his knowledge of human nature, must not carry
himself as cautiously as a diplomatist, provided he is conscious of
good sound principles, fostered from youth upwards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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