Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
Above Rüdesheim the waters of the Rhine expand, the left bank of the
river, if still lofty, is no longer precipitous, while the right
continues almost flat so soon as the Rochusberg is left behind. Between
here and Eltville all the more celebrated vineyards of the Rheingau are
passed in rapid succession--Geisenheim-Rothenberg, Johannisberg,
Steinberg, Marcobrunn, Kiedrich-Grafenberg, Rauenthal, and others. At
Eltville--the former capital of the Rheingau, and where Gunther, of
Schwarzburg, resigned his crown to Charles IV., and died poisoned, it is
said, by his successful rival--we find one of the most extensive wine
establishments in Germany, that of Matheus Müller, who enjoys a high
reputation in England both for his still and sparkling hocks and
moselles. His stock ordinarily consists of from 800 to 1,000
stuck--equivalent to a quarter of a million gallons--of still Rhine and
Moselle wines, much of it of the best years, and from vineyards of
repute, together with nearly a million bottles of sparkling wines stored
in his cellars at Eltville and on the road to Erbach, the aggregate
length of which is some 3,400 feet. The sparkling wines repose in long
cool vaulted galleries similar to many cellars in the Champagne, while
the still wines are stored in capacious subterranean halls each 100
yards in length.
[Illustration]
For his higher-class sparkling hocks Herr Müller derives his principal
supplies from the Rheingau, partly from his own vineyards at Eltville,
Rauenthal, and Hattenheim, and partly by purchases at Erbach,
Hallgarten, Œstrich, Winkel, Johannisberg, Geisenheim, and Rudesheim;
while for his best sparkling moselles, Berncastel, Graach, Trèves, and
the Saar districts are laid under contribution. The Palatinate growths
of Dürkheim, Deidesheim, Mussbach, Haardt, Rhodt, &c., serve as the
basis for the medium and cheaper sparkling hocks, and for sparkling
moselles of a corresponding character such wines as Zeltinger,
Rachtiger, Erdener, Aldegonder, Winninger, &c., are used. Ingelheim and
Heidesheim furnish the wine from black grapes necessary in a subordinate
degree to all sparkling hocks, and very freely had recourse to when it
is desired to impart a champagne character to the wine, as is commonly
the case when this is intended for consumption in Germany. Herr Müller
invariably presses the black grapes himself, in order that the wine may
be as light in colour as possible. As the house annually lays down large
stocks of _vin brut_ it is under no necessity of drawing upon them until
they have attained the requisite maturity and developed all their finer
qualities.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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