Farm Mechanics: Machinery and Its Use to Save Hand Labor on the Farm.Shearer, Herbert A.
Science
Farm Mechanics: Machinery and Its Use to Save Hand Labor on the Farm.
Shearer, Herbert A.
Agricultural machinery
Every farmer has an axe or two, some sort of a handsaw and a nail
hammer. It is astonishing what jobs of repair work a handy farmer will
do with such a dearth of tools. But it is not necessary to worry along
without a good repair kit. Tools are cheap enough.
Such woodworking tools as coarse and fine toothed hand saws, a good
square, a splendid assortment of hammers and the different kinds of
wrenches, screw clamps, boring tools--in fact a complete assortment of
handy woodworking tools is an absolute necessity on a well-managed
farm.
The farm kit should contain two sizes of nail hammers, see Figure 15,
one suitable to drive small nails, say up to eight penny, and the other
for large nails and spikes; a long thin-bladed handsaw, having nine
teeth to the inch, for sawing boards and planks; a shorter handsaw,
having ten teeth to the inch, for small work and for pruning trees. A
pruning saw should cut a fine, smooth kerf, so the wound will not
collect and hold moisture.
[Illustration: Figure 12.--Hand Saw. This pattern, both for cross cut
and rip saw, has been adopted by all makers of fine saws. Nine teeth to
the inch is fine enough for most jobs on the farm.]
[Illustration: Figure 13.--Keyhole Saw with point slim enough to start
the cut from a half-inch auger hole.]
[Illustration: Figure 14.--Bramble Hook for trimming berry bushes and
cleaning out fence corners. It has a knife-edge with hooked sawteeth.]
Farmers' handsaws are required to do a great many different kinds of
work. For this reason, it is difficult to keep them in good working
condition, but if both saws are jointed, set and filed by a good
mechanic once or twice a year, they may be kept in usable condition the
rest of the time by a handy farm workman, unless extra building or
special work is required.
[Illustration: Figure 15.--Nail Hammers. Two styles. The upper hammer is
made with a ball peen and a round face. It is tempered to drive small
nails without slipping and shaped to avoid dinging the wood. This hammer
should weigh 18 or 19 ounces, including the handle. The lower hammer is
heavier, has a flat face and is intended for heavy work such as driving
spikes and fence staples.]
A long-bladed ripsaw is also very useful, and what is commonly termed a
keyhole saw finds more use on the farm than in a carpenter's shop in
town. It is necessary frequently to cut holes through partitions,
floors, etc., and at such times a keyhole saw works in just right.
Handaxes are necessary for roughing certain pieces of wood for repair
jobs. Two sizes of handaxes for different kinds of work are very useful,
also a wide blade draw shave, Figure 16, and shave horse, Figure 9. A
steel square having one 24-inch blade and one 18-inch is the best size.
Such squares usually are heavy enough to remain square after falling off
the bench forty or fifty times. A good deal depends upon the quality of
the steel.
[Illustration: Figure 16.--Drawing-Knife with wide blade for finishing
straight surfaces.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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