Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846Smet, Pierre-Jean de
History
Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846
Smet, Pierre-Jean de
Indians of North America -- West (U.S.); Oregon -- Description and travel; Overland journeys to the Pacific; Rocky Mountains -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- History -- To 1848
I found the Willamette deep enough for ordinary steamboats, for the
distance of twenty miles from its western mouth. One mile below the
falls are rapids on which the water was too shallow to float our canoe.
The tide rises at this place about fourteen inches. The western shore
of the river, from the point where its mouths diverge to this place,
consists of lofty mountains rising immediately from the water-side, and
covered with pines. On the eastern side, beautiful swells and plains
extend from the {202} Columbia to within five or six miles of the
rapids. They are generally covered with pine, white-oak, black-ash, and
other kinds of timber. From the point last named to the rapids, wooded
mountains crowd down to the verge of the stream. Just below the rapids
a very considerable stream comes in from the east. It is said to rise
in a champaign country, which commences two or three miles from the
Willamette, and extends eastward twenty or thirty miles to the lower
hills of the President’s range. This stream breaks through the mountain
tumultuously, and enters the Willamette with so strong a current, as to
endanger boats attempting to pass it.[3] Here were a number of Indian
huts, the inmates of which were busied in taking and curing salmon.
Between the rapids and the falls, the country adjacent to the river is
similar to that just described; mountains clothed with impenetrable
forests.
The river, thus far, appeared to have an average width of four hundred
yards, water limpid. As we approached the falls, the eastern shore
presented a solid wall of basalt, thirty feet in perpendicular height.
On the top of this wall was nearly an acre of level area, on which the
Hudson Bay Company {203} have built a log-house.[4] This plain is three
or four feet below the level of the water above the falls, and protected
from the floods by the intervention of a deep chasm, which separates
it from the rocks over which the water pours. This is the best site in
the country for extensive flour and lumber-mills. The valley of the
Willamette is the only portion of Oregon from which grain can ever, to
any extent, become an article of export; and this splendid waterfall can
be approached at all seasons, from above and below, by sloops, schooners,
&c. The Hudson Bay Company, aware of its importance, have commenced a
race-way, and drawn timber on the ground, with the apparent intention of
erecting such works. On the opposite side is an acre or two of broken
ground, which might be similarly occupied.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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