England -- Description and travel; London (England) -- Description and travel; Thames River (England)
In those days the River banks did not present quite the same commercial
aspect as in our own times; the atmosphere was not quite so befouled
by the smoke of innumerable chimneys, the water was not quite so muddy;
and in consequence the journey by water from the City to that country
place, Greenwich, was a little more pleasant. Indeed, it is said that
the view up river from Greenwich Park rivalled that from Richmond Hill
in beauty. In those days all who could went by water, for the River was
the great highway. Then was its surface gay with brightly painted and
decorated barges, threading their way downstream among the picturesque
vessels of that time.
From Placentia the sovereign could watch the ever-changing but
never-ending pageant of the River, see the many great ships bringing
in the wealth from all known lands, and watch the few journeying forth
in search of lands as yet unknown. Thus on one occasion the occupants
viewed the departure of three shiploads of brave mariners setting forth
to search for a new passage to India by way of the Arctic regions—a
scene which old Hakluyt describes for us: “The greater shippes are
towed downe with boates and oares, and the mariners being all
apparelled in watchet or skie-coloured cloth rowed amaine and made
with diligence. And being come neare to Greenwiche (where the Court
then lay) presently upon the newes thereof the courtiers came running
out and the common people flockt together, standing very thicke upon
the shoare; the privie counsel they lookt out at the windowes of the
court and the rest ran up to the toppes of the towers; and shoot off
their pieces after the manner of warre and of the sea, insomuch that
the toppes of the hilles sounded therewith, the valleys and the waters
gave an echo and the mariners they shouted in such sort that the skie
rang againe with the noyse thereof. Then it is up with their sails, and
good-bye to the Thames.”
Nor in talking of Greenwich must we forget the famous Ministerial fish
dinners which were for so many years a great event in the life of the
town. This custom arose, it is said, from the coming of the Government
Commissioners to examine Dagenham Breach, when they so enjoyed the
succulent fare set before them that they insisted on an annual
repetition, which function was afterwards transferred to the “Ship” at
Greenwich.
At the toe of the great horseshoe bend which gives us Millwall and the
Isle of Dogs stands that famous group of buildings known as Greenwich
Hospital, but more correctly styled the Greenwich Naval College.
This is built on the site of the old Palace. When, following the
Revolution, Charles II. came to the throne, he found the old place
almost past repair, so he decided to pull it down and erect a more
sumptuous one in its place. Plans were accordingly drawn up by the
architect, Inigo Jones, and the building commenced; but only a very
small portion—the eastern half of the north-western quarter—was
completed during his reign.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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