Fifth Avenue (New York, N.Y.); Streets -- New York (State) -- New York
The weekday life was in keeping with the Knickerbocker Sabbath. Home was
the family castle, over which parental authority ruled with an iron
hand. Hospitality was genuine and whole-hearted; but tempered by frugal
moderation. Strict punctuality was demanded of every member of the
household. The noon repast was the meal of the day. At the stroke of
twelve old New York sat down to table. In the home there was variety and
abundance, but the dinner was served as one course. Meats, poultry,
vegetables, pies, puddings, fruits, and sweets were crowded together on
the board. This adherence to the midday meal must have been the weak
point in the armour in which the old order encased itself. For there the
first breach was made. New Yorkers, returning from visits to Europe,
hooted at the primitive noon repast of their youth. At first what were
called the "foreign airs" of these would-be innovators were treated with
derision. But they persisted, and by slow stages three o'clock became
the extra fashionable hour for dinner. The old City Hotel was one of the
first public places to fall into line.
The time was to come when a dining establishment, second to none of its
day in social prestige and culinary excellence, was to stand on a corner
of Fifth Avenue and Fourteenth Street. But when those who dwelt on lower
Fifth Avenue were still pioneers, dining out in public places meant a
long and venturesome journey to the southward. The restaurants of that
time--they were more generally called "eating houses,"--were almost all
established in the business portions of the city. The midday dinner was
the meal on which they depended for their main support. Then masculine
New York left its shop or its counting house, hurried a block to the
right, or a block to the left, and fell greedily on the succulent
oyster, the slice of rare roast beef, or the sizzling English mutton
chop. Conspicuous among the refectories of this type were the Auction
Hotel, on Water Street, near Wall; the dining room of Clark and Brown,
on Maiden Lane, near Liberty Street, one of the first of the so-called
English chop-houses; the United States Hotel, which stood, until a few
years ago, at the corner of Water and Fulton Streets, and which was the
chosen home of the captains of the whaling ships from New London,
Nantucket, New Bedford, and Sag Harbor; Downing's, on Broad Street,
famed for its Saddle Rocks and Blue Points, and its political patrons;
and the basement on Park Row, a few doors from the old Park Theatre,
presided over by one Edward Windust. This last was a _rendezvous_ for
actors, artists, musicians, newspaper-men--in short, the Bohemian set of
that day--and its walls were covered with old play-bills, newspaper
clippings, and portraits of tragedians and comedians of the past.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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