CHAPTER PAGE I Santa Fe, the Royal City of St. Francis’s Holy Faith 1 II The Upper Rio Grande, its Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings 20 III Roundabout Albuquerque 43 IV The Dead Cities of the Salines 56 V Of Acoma, City of the Marvellous Rock; and Laguna 68 VI To Zuñi, the Center of the Earth, via Gallup 82 VII El Morro, the Autograph Rock of the Conquistadores 93 VIII The Storied Land of the Navajo 102 IX The Homes of the Hopis, Little People of Peace 116 X The Petrified Forest of Arizona 130 XI Flagstaff as a Base 137 XII The Grand Cañon of the Colorado River in Arizona 150 XIII Montezuma’s Castle and Well, Which Montezuma Never Saw 162 XIV San Antonio 176 XV In the Country of the Giant Cactus 188 XVI Southern California 204 A Postscript on Climate, Ways and Means 222 Index 227 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE An Acoma Indian Dance 72 Laguna, the Mother Pueblo of Seven 73 Bead Maker, Zuñi Pueblo 82 A Street in Acoma Pueblo 83 Old Church, Acoma Pueblo 88 A Sunny Wall in Zuñi 89 Casa Blanca or White House 116 El Morro or Inscription Rock, N. M. 117 In the North Petrified Forest 135 A Corner in Santa Fe, N. M. 136 Old Governor’s Palace, Santa Fe, N. M. 162 Montezuma’s Castle 163 San José de Aguayo 184 San Xavier del Bac, Arizona 185 CHAPTER I SANTA FE—THE ROYAL CITY OF SAINT FRANCIS’S HOLY FAITH