Finding the Worth While in the SouthwestSaunders, Charles Francis
History
Finding the Worth While in the Southwest
Saunders, Charles Francis
Southwest, New -- Description and travel
Also in the Cathedral, it is believed, rests the mortality of Don Diego
de Vargas, _el Reconquistador_, but unmarked. You will find many an echo
of him in Santa Fe, for he it was who in 1692 re-conquered New Mexico
for Spain after the Pueblo uprising of 1680 had swept the Spaniards out
of the province and for twelve years kept them out. Every year in June
Santa Fe celebrates its De Vargas Day, when a procession, bearing at its
head an image of the Virgin, marches from the Cathedral to the little
Rosario Chapel that is dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary (or as Santa
Féans sometimes call her, _La Conquistadora_, the Lady Conqueror). It
occupies the spot, on the city outskirts, where according to tradition
De Vargas knelt on the eve of his second entry into the capital
(December 16, 1693), and invoking the blessing of the Virgin upon his
arms, promised her a chapel if she vouchsafed him victory on the morrow.
It is a scant half-hour’s stroll thither from the Plaza, and you will
enjoy the walk through the city’s half foreign scenes, though the
building itself is disappointing because of its handling by tasteless
renovators. Much more picturesque, though modernized with an astonishing
steeple, is the little church of Guadalupe, standing amid Lombardy
poplars on the south bank of the river. A quiet, reposeful, little
temple, this, with beautifully carved ceiling beams and a curious, if
crude, altar-piece representing the appearances of Mexico’s Heavenly
Patroness to Juan Diego.
Of the churches in Santa Fe, however, the one that is made most of by
visitors, is the square-towered adobe of San Miguel. It is a pleasant
twenty-minute walk from the Plaza (and, by all means, do walk when you
go, for the way thither is too picturesque to be whisked over in an
automobile)—through quiet, unpaved streets lined with one-storied adobe
houses and often too narrow to accommodate any but a mere thread of
sidewalk, where you bump into burros and, like as not, have utter
strangers tip their hats to you with a _buenos dias, señor_. You pass
the Bishop’s sequestered gardens and the high-walled grounds of the
Convent and Academy of the Sisters of Loretto, with glimpses through a
postern gate of old-fashioned flower beds; and further on, the touching
little cemetery of the Sisters, each simple grave marked by a cross
whereon vines and fragrant flowers lean lovingly; and so, on stepping
stones, to the south side of the little Rio de Santa Fe. Then mounting
the hill past more gardens where hollyhocks—_la barra de San José_ (St.
Joseph’s rod) the New Mexicans call them—nod at you over the walls, and
children prattle in Spanish and women sing at their work, there you are
before old San Miguel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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