It was in the Middle Ages, however, after a period of comparative
mediocrity, that the greatest degree of perfection in goldsmiths’ work,
and especially in rings, began to display itself. In the reign of Edward
III. (1363), so great was the extravagance in dress and decoration that an
Act was passed to repress the evil. All persons under the rank of
Knighthood, or of less property than two hundred pounds in land and
tenements, were forbidden to wear rings, and other articles of jewellery.
[Illustration: Gold ‘Middle Age’ ring, from the Louvre.]
In the ‘Vision of Pierce Ploughman,’ written, it is supposed, about this
date, the poet speaks of a richly-adorned lady, whose fingers were all
embellished with rings of gold, set with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.
In a parchment roll of Prayers to the Virgin in the Library of Jesus
College, Oxford, which formerly belonged to Margaret of Anjou, there is a
portrait of that queen who is represented wearing two rings on each finger
except the least, placed on the middle as well as the third joint of the
fingers--a fashion probably introduced by her, and shown in the curious
portrait of this queen on the tapestry at Coventry.
In later ages we find the same practice of ornamenting the fingers with
several rings. In the description of a Scottish woman of the middle of the
sixteenth century, attributed to Dunbar, we find:--
On ilkune fyngar scho weirit ringis tuo
Scho was als proud an ony papingo.
Queen Elizabeth had an immoderate love for jewellery; and the description
given of her dresses covered with gems of the greatest rarity and beauty
reads like a romance. For finger-rings she had a remarkable fondness. Paul
Hentzner, in his ‘Journey into England,’ 1598, relates that a Bohemian
baron having letters to present to her at the palace of Greenwich, the
queen, after pulling off her glove, ‘gave him her right hand to kiss,
sparkling with rings and jewels--a mark of particular favour.’
[Illustration: Rings on the effigy of Lady Stafford.]
In Bromsgrove Church, Staffordshire, are the fine monumental effigies of
Sir Humphrey Stafford and his lady (1450)--remarkable alike for the rich
armour of the knight and the courtly costume of the lady. She wears a
profusion of rings; every finger, except the little finger of the right
hand, being furnished with one. They exhibit great variety of design. The
two hands are lifted in prayer.
‘In the Duke of Newcastle’s comedy,’ observes Mr. Fairholt, ‘the “Country
Captain” (1649), a lady of title is told that when she resides in the
country a great show of finger rings will not be necessary: “Show your
white hand, with but one diamond, when you carve, and be not ashamed to
wear your own ringe with the old posie.” That many rings were worn by
persons of both sexes is clear from another passage in the same play,
where a fop is described, ‘who makes his fingers like jewellers’ cards to
set rings upon.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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