[13] The writer advised that these men should be hung upon the spot where the outrage was committed, that the bodies should be burned and the ashes cast into the sea, lest by any means the murderers might become martyrs. This precaution should invariably be adopted when Moslems assassinate Infidels. [14] The reason of the objection is not apparent. A savage people is imperfectly punished by a few deaths: the fine is the only true way to produce a lasting impression upon their heads and hearts. Moreover, it is the custom of India and the East generally, and is in reality the only safeguard of a traveller's property. [Illustration: Map to illustrate LIEUT. BURTON'S Route to HARAR _from a Sketch by the late Lieut. W. Stroyan, Indian Navy._] [Illustration: BERBERAH] CONTENTS. PREFACE CHAPTER I. Departure from Aden CHAP. II. Life in Zayla CHAP. III. Excursions near Zayla CHAP. IV. The Somal, their Origin and Peculiarities CHAP. V. From Zayla to the Hills CHAP. VI. From the Zayla Hills to the Marar Prairie CHAP. VII. From the Marar Prairie to Harar CHAP. VIII. Ten Days at Harar CHAP. IX. A Ride to Berberah CHAP. X. Berberah and its Environs POSTSCRIPT APPENDICES LIST OF PLATES. Harar, from the Coffe Stream Map of Berberah Route to Harar The Hammal Costume of Harar H. H. Ahmed Bin Abibakr, Amir of Harar [Illustration] CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE FROM ADEN. I doubt not there are many who ignore the fact that in Eastern Africa, scarcely three hundred miles distant from Aden, there is a counterpart of ill-famed Timbuctoo in the Far West. The more adventurous Abyssinian travellers, Salt and Stuart, Krapf and Isenberg, Barker and Rochet,--not to mention divers Roman Catholic Missioners,--attempted Harar, but attempted it in vain. The bigoted ruler and barbarous people threatened death to the Infidel who ventured within their walls; some negro Merlin having, it is said, read Decline and Fall in the first footsteps of the Frank. [1] Of all foreigners the English were, of course, the most hated and dreaded; at Harar slavery still holds its head-quarters, and the old Dragon well knows what to expect from the hand of St. George. Thus the various travellers who appeared in beaver and black coats became persuaded that the city was inaccessible, and Europeans ceased to trouble themselves about Harar. It is, therefore, a point of honor with me, dear L., to utilise my title of Haji by entering the city, visiting the ruler, and returning in safety, after breaking the guardian spell. The most auspicious day in the Moslem year for beginning a journey is, doubtless, the 6th of the month Safar [2], on which, quoth the Prophet, El Islam emerged from obscurity. Yet even at Aden we could not avail ourselves of this lucky time: our delays and difficulties were a fit prelude for a journey amongst those "Blameless Ethiopians," with whom no less a personage than august Jove can dine and depart. [3]