Houses that are not very new are always more or less tumble-down. The
mud ceilings crack very easily, and the white gypsum flakes off at the
slightest touch. The more essential parts of the structure are equally
undurable. But you must remember that no Yezdi wants his house to last
for ever. When the house is first of all built, a large chamber is made
below the surface to receive the drainage, and the size of this is
determined by the length of time the owner wishes his house to last,
which is generally forty to fifty years. When the chamber is full, the
rich occupants move to another house, and the house gradually falls to
pieces. To the Yezdi an old house means a bad house, and this idea is so
deeply rooted, that even in his _bagh_ he seems to prefer young trees
to those which have attained their full size. The idea of a residence
which bears the marks of natural growth, and is not simply artificial,
has never entered into the Yezdi’s mind; and the absence of this to us
familiar idea, has to be reckoned with in dealing with his character.
Also it must be remembered that two-thirds of a Persian town, and
three-quarters of a Persian village, is from various causes invariably in
ruins. I suppose that in an English climate the best-built Yezd dwelling
houses would remain standing for about a fortnight. In spite of their
palatial design they are really nothing but mud huts, and when you live
in them, or rather about them, for you are in the open air as often as
you are inside, you learn their imperfections to your cost. Nobody can
realise the immense amount of damage that can be done in a town like
Yezd by a really wet day. Some while ago we had twenty-four hours of
rain, which destroyed, I believe, about a couple of hundred roofs, and,
what is worse, caused the older _qan’at_ pits to fall in, blocking the
water supply in some parts of the town for three months. Is there any
other town in the world where a little extra rain causes a three months’
drought? There is a story in Tehran about a Dutch Ambassador, who was
so afraid of the roof falling down that in wet weather he invariably
slept under the table. However he was a very tall man, and, when the
catastrophe happened, he got his foot crushed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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