As most of the richer Persians have more than one house in the villages,
Europeans generally have no great difficulty in hiring a place to stay
at. The houses are left during the winter in charge of a villager, who
uses the lower rooms only, the upper ones being then uninhabitable from
the intense cold. Indeed the cold is so great that we were told that one
winter the animals had been dying of thirst, as the water was frozen
beyond the possibility of breaking the ice, and they had not fuel enough
to melt it. The whole building is much rougher than the town house,
though the roofs have to be made more carefully. The villages are very
small and isolated, and the winter population is quite trifling. There
is in these villages a little arable land, but the people depend chiefly
on root-crops, nuts, and dried fruit for their winter stores, and on
the produce of the sheep and goats. The animals are tended in summer by
the children. The little boys spend most of their time up the walnut
trees, throwing down leaves for them to eat, while the little ragged
shepherdesses carry a twelve-foot staff for whacking the walnut trees,
when they do not climb them in the same way as their brothers.
Those who go to the villages in the summer take with them everything
they need in the way of carpets, furniture, and cooking utensils, also
all groceries, and even wheat and charcoal; for the commonest things
of this kind are often absolutely unprocurable. A rich Persian has
stores frequently sent to him from Yezd during his stay. Even in Yezd
some necessary store or other is almost always running short, so that
something is generally at famine prices. This, of course, is due to the
great isolation of the town. But in the villages it is intensified.
Sometimes there will be no meat, at another time hardly any bread, and
some years ago we found it almost impossible to procure milk, and were
told by our Persian friends that they had the same difficulty. This
eighteen-hour journey, with all the paraphernalia of the home, is the
average Yezdi’s only experience of foreign travel; and for this reason I
have thought it necessary to give some account of what he sees and finds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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