It was indeed a novel idea to me, having travelled so little, to see so primitive and interesting a place as it had been described to me, and with a portfolio of unfinished _Vanity Fair_ cartoons to complete while away, I set off on a P. and O. for Gibraltar. I arrived there in a dense mist, which, however, passed off in a few hours. I had a letter of introduction to Colonel Whitaker, who was in command of the Artillery at this time, and having ascertained that there was no boat to take me to Tangier for two or three days, I promptly presented my letter, which was answered with equal promptitude, inviting me to dine at the regimental mess on the following evening. I, of course, accepted, and had a thoroughly good time. Next day I called upon him at one of the charming villas on the Rock, to thank him for his hospitality. Anxious to be in the warm and sunny clime of Africa, I now lost no time in getting on board a paddle-boat of sorts for my destination. I didn't like the look of the morning, for it was not one that I had pictured to myself as being appropriate to the occasion. When we were under way, I noticed a depressing-looking group of Moors huddled up together, who, as the vessel proceeded, grew very ill indeed, and this didn't enliven matters. On arriving in the Bay of Tangier, the passengers were landed in small boats, their baggage being seized from them, regardless of instructions, by a collection of officious Moors, who followed them with the porters to their respective hotels. [Illustration: LORD NEWLANDS. 1909.] [Illustration: COUNT DE SOVERAL. (_Late Portuguese Minister_). 1898.] [Illustration: M. GENNADILTS (_Greek Minister in England for 30 years_). 1888.] The proprietor of the Continental, Ansaldo by name, was quite a personality and looked after his visitors with the greatest interest, especially those who were likely to make a prolonged stay in his hotel. Evidently anxious to make me at home, he immediately introduced me to a young doctor who was permanently staying in the hotel, and who "knew the ropes," and he was quite a good fellow and very useful in showing me the way about. My disappointment regarding the weather led me to inquire of him if it was at all usual to see such dull skies in Tangier, and how long the drizzling rain was likely to last. The answer came promptly, "Wait and see," and I did for a week, when the sun appeared in its full glory and everything was _couleur de rose_ for a long time to come. Having a letter of introduction to Mr. White (the Consul), I lost little time in calling upon him, and after ringing at the bell of the Consulate and giving instructions for its safe delivery, I was shown into the drawing-room. He was evidently occupied at the time, so I had to wait. At last he came in, and to my astonishment handed me the letter back, saying, "I think there is some mistake."