Being much puzzled as to what he meant, I took it out of the envelope
and read as follows (as nearly as I can remember):--
"DEAR MR. WARD,
"Mind when presenting the letter of introduction to Mr. White you
make out that you are an intimate friend of mine, and be careful
in speaking of me to call me by my Christian name, Maughan,
pronounced like Vaughan. He is a good chap and will be useful to
you, especially if he thinks you are a great pal of mine,"
etc....!
Imagine my feelings, which were indescribable; with awkward apologies
I beat a hasty retreat. Afterwards I had the face to send Mr. White
the right letter, the result being that while I was sketching in the
market-place next morning, he politely came up to me, and later on I
received an invitation to dine at his house, so all ended well.
Having made a "_faux-pas_," there was nothing now left but to forget
it, so, under the guidance of new acquaintances, I sallied forth in
pursuit of pastures new. The Socco or market-place first of all
appealed to me as a subject for my water-colour brush, and from the
hill (taking it all in) I made my first sketch which, on my return
home, Sargent happened to see and complimented me upon. The
picturesque groups of women in strange straw hats, and the Moors in
their Jhelabs, the camels, snake-charmers, and the ebony-coloured men
from Timbuctoo, were all something to feast one's eyes upon. Again,
the occasional saint (mad-man) and the strings of blind beggars were a
novelty to the stranger's eye.
In the town, what struck me first was the persistent way in which
these blind people followed one about in pursuit of coppers; many of
them I was told had their eyes simmered for some quite paltry offence
and in consequence were doomed for life. An occasional leper, too, one
came across, but he was despicable beyond description in the eyes of
his fellow-creatures.
Becoming by degrees used to the first impressions, and beginning to
generalise on the surroundings, the desire came upon me to see
something of the country, and for this purpose the hiring of a barb or
mule was indispensable.
Mr. Harris (_The Times_ correspondent) and my doctor friend were
extremely kind in showing me round at first, and with their aid and
advice I soon got to know my way about. The latter escorted me in the
evenings to the different haunts of vice, the Kieffe dens, where men
were lying sometimes unconscious from excessive abuse of the drug
(which was smoked in a small pipe), or to a rather low Spanish music
hall of a not refined or elevating character; and to while away the
time, I learnt to know how these people enjoyed their leisure hours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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