Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic Faith — John Shaqi
Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic FaithBeste, Henry Digby
Religion
Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic Faith
Beste, Henry Digby
France -- Description and travel
We passed through the village of St. Clair. A very particular
circumstance, which had occurred five months before, caused me to be
much affected, while in sight of this town. My elder son, who sat
opposite to me, remarked the change of my countenance, and asked the
reason: I eluded his question for the present: I was not aware how much
what I then revolved in my mind regarded the fate of this son. St. Clair
was an English priest, who, in the eighth century, retired into the pays
de Vexin, led there an eremitical life, and occupied himself in the
religious instruction of the inhabitants. His name and memory are held
in great honour, particularly in the dioceses of Beauvais and Paris.
We crossed the bridge of Pontoise without entering that ancient town, in
which the Etats Généraux were sometime held. The building of a bridge
was formerly so great an exploit, and the possession of one an advantage
so uncommon, that the word enters into the composition of many names of
towns: we find even Deuxponts, and Bracebridge. The waters of all the
rivers which fall into the Seine seem to be of the same colour; all
bring with them chalk and clay. The soil of the whole basin, or valley
of the Seine, is generally uniform.
Paris is hidden, from those who approach it by the road of St. Denis, by
the interposition of Montmartre, a bare hill of no pleasing form. No
increasing populousness or bustle, or passage of exits and entrances,
announces the vicinity of a great town: Paris is all within its own
walls. We were stopt at the gate; for every gate is a douane, as all
provisions pay a tax on entering the city, except bread, corn, and
flour, which receive a premium: even one of my trunks was opened. As the
parts of a town, remote from its centre, are, of course, inhabited by
the poorer classes, it is unreasonable to expect magnificence on the
first entering, even of Paris; but it improved as we proceeded. We
crossed the Boulevards, and were set down at the Messageries, the grand
establishment of all the public carriages, whence we proceeded to the
Hôtel de Conti, at a little distance, and near the Palais Royal. We had
performed the whole journey in twenty-five hours, at the rate of about
six miles an hour, all stoppages included. During the night, and where
the road was bad, we went slowly; but from Rouen to Paris we went more
than seven miles and a half an hour, the rate of an English mail coach;
the relays of horses always being in readiness at the door of each
post-house. The expense for three persons, including breakfast and
dinner, was about five pounds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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