The royal palace consists of a square enclosure in the centre of the
large square city. It was at that time surrounded and defended by a
strong stockade of teak logs set on end in the ground, and inside of
that, as a second line of defence, was a strong brick wall; but both
stockade and wall have since been removed by the British as unnecessary.
Passing inside these two defences, the visitor found himself in the
spacious grounds of the palace, part of which were prettily laid out as
gardens, with artificial canals of water, rockeries and summer houses.
Part of this space was devoted to the king’s arsenal; on the eastern side
were the treasury and the mint.
In the centre of all, raised on an earthen platform about eight feet
high, and pretty well covering an area of perhaps a couple of acres with
a miscellaneous and irregular collection of handsome lofty buildings,
with much carving in teak, and abundance of the inevitable gold leaf,
is the royal palace of the kings of Burma. Some of the buildings are
of brick, but the majority are of teak. There is something decidedly
impressive, unique and highly interesting about the palace, as a specimen
of an Oriental monarch’s residence, but from a European standpoint it is
wanting in unity of design and symmetry of arrangement. The buildings are
so huddled together that they lose much of their appearance, and you have
to find your way about among these fine buildings by queer narrow little
lanes and wooden platforms, and by many sudden and unexpected turns, that
to a Western mind take off considerably from the majesty of the place.
But then we must remember the character of the Burmese court, notorious
for back-stairs influence, corruption, intrigue, conspiracy and the like.
That being so, it is only natural that the palace buildings should allow
proper facilities for the same, and be in keeping with it.
[Illustration: ONE OF THE GATEWAYS OF THE ROYAL CITY OF MANDALAY]
The only approach to anything like the dignity of a palace from our point
of view is the front or eastern side, where there is the throne room or
audience hall, surmounted with the great spire which rises roof over roof
to a considerable height and almost to a point, terminating with the
usual gilt umbrella. This was considered to be the centre of the universe
by the Burman courtiers, and it is still facetiously called by that name
by the English. It was here that the king used to appear on his throne
on special occasions. It is said that King Mindohn, the father of King
Theebaw, used to gaze at his people from his throne through a pair of
binoculars. The people would all be down on their knees in his presence,
and not only on their knees, but crouching on their elbows too, for that
is the attitude for special reverence in Burma.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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