Sagaing, twelve miles from Mandalay, was the capital in 1762, and the
remains of the city wall are still to be seen. Amarapoora was founded in
1783. In 1822 it was almost totally destroyed by fire. It is said, too,
that a vulture alighting on the royal spire of the palace caused great
uneasiness to the king. The court astrologers were summoned to explain
this omen. As, in their estimation, it foreshadowed evil, a new palace
was built at Ava, and the capital was removed there in 1823, but only
remained there till 1837. Those of us who are now in middle life will
remember learning in our geography, “Burma, capital Ava,” whereas this
fugitive capital, though it appeared so in our school books, had long
before our day left Ava and gone back to Amarapoora, where it remained
till 1860, when the king and his court made their last removal to
Mandalay.
One thing is clear: the country that can afford to gratify its
superstitious fear of omens in this spendthrift way, lightly undertaking
to build a new capital every now and then, and whilst sparing so much
on pagodas, monasteries, monks and other works of merit, yet look so
plump and well favoured as Burmans usually do, must possess considerable
sources of wealth, and there is no doubt such is the case with Burma.
Between the religious buildings and the dwellings of the people the
contrast is great, but it was greater in Burmese times than it is now. It
was very significant indeed to observe the rage for building brick houses
that took place in Mandalay, when once it was known for certain that
the Burmese Government was no more, and that it was to be the English
Government henceforth; and equally instructive was it to observe how
the value of property went up by leaps and bounds. One needs no better
proof than that of the reputation British rule enjoys even in the remote
East, and of the enlivening touch it gives to commerce and all that is
free and enterprising. And how the natives of India of different races
flocked into the upper province after the annexation! They knew what
British rule was in India, even though many of them knew not a word of
English. Even the Upper Burmans, who were quite new to our government,
seemed at once to enter into the spirit of the change that had come. The
sumptuary laws were removed, of course, now the king was gone; that is,
such laws as regulated to a nicety what style of house a man might build,
and what kind of an umbrella and how many of them he might carry on state
occasions; and the Burmans who had money now no longer feared that if
they let it be known they would have to part with it. Hence, for various
reasons, the building of substantial brick houses went on at a great
rate, and almost all the brick houses now seen in Mandalay were built at
that time.
CHAPTER IV.
_THE PEOPLE OF MANDALAY._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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