When the islands are first approached they present, it must be
confessed, a somewhat forbidding aspect. Bare, bleak rocks, with a
monotonous rounded outline, crowd along the shore, and seem to form
all but the very highest portions of the land that meet our view,
while such areas of low-ground as we can catch a glimpse of appear
to be everywhere covered with a dusky mantle of heath and peat. But,
although the general character of the scenery is thus tame and sombre,
yet there are certain districts which in their wild picturesqueness are
hardly surpassed by many places in the northern Highlands, while one
may search the coast-line of the mainland in vain for cliffs to compare
with those gaunt walls of rock, against which the great rollers of the
Atlantic continually surge and thunder. It is wonderful, too, how,
under the influence of a light-blue sky, flecked with shining silvery
clouds, the sombre peat-lands lighten up and glow with regal purple and
ruddy brown. With such a sky above him, and with a lively breeze fresh
from the Atlantic and laden with the sweetness of clover and meadow-hay
and heather-bloom sweeping gaily past him, what wanderer in the Outer
Hebrides need be pitied? And such days are by no means so rare in these
islands as many a jaundiced Lowlander has maintained. It is true that
heavy mists and drizzling rain are often provokingly prevalent, and I
cannot forget the experience of a sad-hearted exile, who had resided
continuously for a year in Lewis, and who, upon being asked what kind
of climate that island enjoyed, replied: "Sir, it has no climate. There
are nine months of winter, and three months of very bad weather." For
myself, I can say that my experience of the climate in June, July, and
early August of several years has been decidedly favourable. During
those months I found comparatively few days in which a very fair
amount of walking and climbing could not be accomplished with ease and
pleasure, and that is a good deal more than one could venture to say
of Skye and many parts of the west coast of the mainland. The greatest
drawback to one's comfort are the midges, which in these islands
are beyond measure bloodthirsty, and quite as obnoxious as the most
carnivorous mosquitoes. Smoking, and all the other arts and devices by
which the designs of these tiny pests are usually circumvented, have
no effect upon the Hebridean vampires. In the low-grounds especially
they make life a burden. But those who have already become acquainted
with the Ross-shire midges, and yet have preserved their equanimity,
may feel justified in braving the ferocity of the Hebridean hosts. And
if they do so I believe they will be well repaid for their courage. To
the hardy pedestrian, especially, who likes to escape from the beaten
track laid down in guide-books, it will be a pleasure in itself to
roam over a region which has not yet come entirely under the dominion
of Mr. Cook. If he be simply a lover of the picturesque he will yet
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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