That long range of islands and islets which, extending from latitude
56° 47' N. to latitude 58° 32' N., acts as a great natural breakwater
to protect the north-west coast of Scotland from the rude assaults
of the Atlantic billows is not much visited by the ordinary tourist.
During "the season" the steamers now and again, it is true, deposit a
few wanderers at Tarbert and Stornoway, some of whom may linger for a
shorter or longer time to try a cast for salmon in Loch Laxdail, while
others, on similar piscatorial deeds intent, may venture inland as far
as Gearaidh nah Aimhne (Garrynahine). Others, again, who are curious
in the matter of antiquities, may visit the weird standing-stones of
Callernish, or even brave the jolting of a "trap" along the somewhat
rough road that leads from Tarbert to Rodel, in order to inspect the
picturesque little chapel there, and take rubbings of its quaint
tombstones with their recumbent effigies of knights, and Crusaders'
swords, and somewhat incomprehensible Latinity. Occasionally a few
bolder spirits may be tempted by the guide-books to visit Barra Head,
with its ruddy cliffs and clouds of noisy sea-birds, or even to run
north to the extremity of the Long Island to view the wonders of
the Butt of Lewis. But, as a rule, the few summer visitants who are
landed at Stornoway content themselves with a general inspection of
the grounds about Sir James Mathieson's residence, while those who
are dropped at Tarbert on Saturday are usually quite ready to depart
on Monday with the steamer that brought them. The fact is that hotel
accommodation in the Outer Hebrides is rather limited, and the means
of locomotion through the islands is on the same slender scale. Those,
therefore, who are not able and willing to rough it had better not
venture far beyond Tarbert and Stornoway.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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