After having familiarised themselves with the aspect of the hills
as seen from below, the lover of the picturesque, not less than the
geologist, will do well to ascend some dominant point from which an
extensive bird's-eye view can be obtained. For such purpose I can
recommend the Tarcall and Roneval in South Harris, the Clisham and the
Langa in North Harris, and Suainabhal in Lewis. The view from these
hills is wonderfully extensive and very impressive. From Suainabhal one
commands nearly all Lewis; and what a weird picture of desolation it
is! An endless succession of bare, grey, round-backed rocks and hills,
with countless lakes and lakelets nestling in their hollows, undulates
outwards over the districts of Uig and Pairc. Away to the north spread
the great moorlands with their lochans, while immediately to the south
one catches a fine panoramic view of the mountains of Harris. And then
those long straggling arms of the sea, reaching into the very heart of
the island--how blue, and bright, and fresh they look! I suppose the
natives of the Lewis must have been fishermen from the very earliest
times. It seems hardly possible otherwise to believe that the bare
rocks and peat-bogs, which form the major portion of its surface,
could ever have supported a large population; and yet there is every
evidence to show that this part of the Long Island was tolerably well
populated in very early days. The great standing-stones of Callernish
and the many other monoliths, both solitary and in groups, that are
scattered along the west coast of Lewis, surely betoken as much. And
those curious round towers, or places of refuge and defence, which are
so well represented in the same district, although they may be much
younger in date than the monoliths of Callernish, tell the same tale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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