From the summits of the Clisham and the Langa the view is finer than
that obtained from Suainabhal. The former overlook all the high-grounds
of Harris and Lewis, and the monotonous moors with their countless
straggling lakes and peaty tarns. Indeed, they dominate nearly the
whole of the Long Island, the hills of distant Barra being quite
distinguishable. Of course, the lofty island of Rum, and Skye with
its Coolins, are both clearly visible, the whole view being framed in
to eastward by the mountains of Ross and Sutherland. On a clear day,
which, unfortunately, I did not get, one should be quite able to see
St. Kilda. Hardly less extensive is the view obtained from Roneval
(1506 feet) in the south of Harris. Far away to the west lie St. Kilda
and its little sister islet of Borerey. Southwards stretch the various
islands of the Outer Hebrides--North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and
Barra. How plainly visible they all are--a screen of high mountains
facing the Minch, and extending, apparently, along their whole eastern
margin--with broad lake-dappled plains sweeping out from the foot-hills
to the Atlantic. In the east, Skye with its spiky Coolins spreads
before one, and north of Skye we easily distinguish Ben Slioch and
the mountains of Loch Maree and Loch Torridon. South Harris lies, of
course, under our feet, and it is hard to give one who has not seen it
an adequate notion of its sterile desolation. Round-backed hills and
rocks innumerable, scraped bare of any soil, and supporting hardly a
vestige of vegetation; heavy mountain-masses with a similar rounded
contour, and equally naked and desolate; blue lakelets scattered in
hundreds among the hollows and depressions of the land: such is the
general appearance of the rocky wilderness that stretches inland from
the shores of the Minch. Then all around lies the great blue sea,
shining like sapphire in the sun, and flecked with tiny sails, where
the fishermen are busy at their calling.
From what has now been said, it will readily be understood that there
is not much cultivable land in Harris and the hilly parts of Lewis.
What little there is occurs chiefly along the west coast, a character
which we shall find is common to most of the islands of the Outer
Hebrides. In the neighbourhood of Stornoway, and over considerable
areas along the whole west coast of Lewis, the moorlands have been
broken in upon by spade and plough, with more or less success. But
natural meadow-lands, such as are frequently met with on the west side
of many of the islands both of the Outer and Inner Hebrides, are not
very common in Lewis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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