All through the islands, indeed, the artist will come upon interesting
subjects. A most impressive scene may sometimes be witnessed on
crossing the North Ford, between North Uist and Benbecula. At
low-water, the channel or sound between these two islands, which is
five miles in breadth, disappears and leaves exposed a wide expanse
of wet sand and silt, dotted with black rocks and low tangle-covered
reefs and skerries. On the morning I passed over, ragged sheets of mist
hung low down on the near horizon, half-obscuring and half-revealing
the stony islets, and crags, and hills that lay between the ford and
the Minch. Seen through such a medium, the rocks assumed the most
surprising forms, sometimes towering into great peaks and cliffs,
at other times breaking up, as it were, into low reefs and shoals,
and anon dissolving in grey mist and vapour. At other times the thin
cloud-curtain would lift, and then one fancied one saw some vast city
with ponderous walls and battlements, and lofty towers and steeples,
rising into the mist-wreaths that hung above it, while from many points
on the Benbecula coast, where kelp was being prepared, clouds of smoke
curled slowly upwards, as if from the camp-fires of some besieging
army. The track of the ford winds round and about innumerable rocks,
upon which a number of "natives," each stooping solitary and silent to
his or her work, were reaping the luxuriant seaweed for kelp-making.
Their silence was quite in keeping with the general stillness, which
would have been unbroken but for the harsh scream of the sea-birds, as
they ever and anon rose scared from their favourite feeding-grounds
while we plodded and plashed on our way. The artist who could
successfully cope with such a scene would paint a singularly weird and
suggestive picture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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